44) South Vietnam: Backpacking. 17 to 21 August, 2016.

Originally it was the plan to cruise Vietnam, but after much research in 2015 we abandoned this decision. It costs a lot per person to enter the country, secondly you can only visit three ports maximum, and that is a big ask when the country has an extensive coastline and lastly there are many hidden and unofficial charges you may be expected to pay from various ‘officials’ along the way to smooth your path. Given all this we decided the best course of action would be to leave the boat in Cambodia and backpack around Vietnam.

So off we went on our backpacking adventure and caught a minibus to the nearest border crossing. The exit from Cambodia and entry into Vietnam was quick and painless, on both sides. We were so excited to be in a new country and after 52 countries visited in our too short 56 years, this excitement has not dimmed in the least.

This very long and narrow country was a shock at first. There are approximately 95 million people in Vietnam and its frenetic pace can at first be overwhelming and confusing. Cars everywhere and from all directions, bikes driving or parking on the footpath, and many people in close proximity to your person, make for slow and careful movement, especially for those on foot. We often hire a car in most countries we visit and drive ourselves around. However, on this occasion we wisely decided to backpack and use a variety of different modes of transport – car, minibus, local buses, coach, motor bike, train, tuk tuk’s and of course foot, to transect the country from south to north.

After spending a few days in the small southern town of Ha Tien we were eager to head north to Ho Chi Minh City, or the previously known Saigon. We had booked a hotel on-line after our great experience in Cambodia and paid up front for the room. We decided to be a few blocks back from the main tourist strip so we could get a decent sleep but still enjoy all the restaurants and bar scene nearby. However, what we booked was not what we got. On arrival we were told that our room had suddenly developed ‘faulty plumbing’ and we could not stay at our elected hotel as all other rooms were booked out. We were told “do not worry we have a similar room for you, in another hotel”. After walking a few blocks, yep it was a similar room with the same cost, but sadly right on the main tourist street – ground zero. We could not get our money back without a huge battle with the on-line booking agency, so we decided to tough it out. How bad can it be? Well it certainly was bad and made for poor sleep as the door to door bars below stayed open until 4am and then the traffic started at 8am. We did have industrial strength ear plugs which helped in the morning with the traffic but not with the thump- thump of blaring music all night. We were told later by a local that this is a well-known scam. The hotels on the tourist strip cannot get custom due to the noise, so they give other hotels commission to get customers by any means possible. We learnt a lesson that day - always pay for the room on arrival and after you have viewed it, and not up-front. Even if this option is slightly more expensive you can go to another hotel of your choosing, if the room ‘suddenly becomes unavailable’ or does not meet expectations.

The Reunification Palace - a 1970's time warp.

Regardless of this experience we really enjoyed Ho Chi Minh City (HCM City).  Walking around checking out sights by day and indulging in heavenly Vietnamese food or really good western food, in the evening was pure bliss. Again the Margaritas’ were cheap and sensational. We walked everywhere during the day and visited the War Remains Museum, the Reunification Palace, the Notre Dame Cathedral, the grand Central Post Office and took a tour to the nearby Cu Chi Tunnels.

The gates stormed by Minh's army.

The two highlights for us being the Reunification Palace and the Cu Chi Tunnels, both must see when you visit HCM City. The Reunification Palace is the former command Centre of the South Vietnamese (ant-communist) army and the allied forces (USA and Australian) against Ho Chi Minh’s (Communist) northern army. It was Ho Chi Minh’s (Minh’s) aspiration to reclaim the south, regain independence, and to unify the country. The majority of Vietnamese citizens wanted their country back and under their own control after being invaded, controlled or influenced by numerous other countries for centuries - Chinese, Dutch, English (with the East India Company), Portuguese, French, and Japanese.

The rooftop helipad - where people were evacuated from and where Minh's army bombed.

After WWII the Geneva Accords stated that Vietnam would unify the north and south and become one country, but sadly this did not happen. A fraudulent referendum saw the South Vietnamese Prime Minister proclaim himself as the President, keeping the two entities separate and not unifying the country as planned. The USA became involved in 1965 convinced that if Minh won, it would lead the way for further Communist expansion in Asia. The fall of Saigon on the 30^th April, 1975, ended the war with a victory for Minh’s army.

HF transmitters and power supplies. 

As we know the re-unification did not bring strict communism to Vietnam. It was governed by the Communist party but became the Socialist Republic of Vietnam in 1976. It did not lead to a China driven country and mass slaughter of the South Vietnamese people, as the Americans once thought. The senseless loss of life on both sides, up to 3 million, because of conflicting ideologies, was a high price to pay.

The basement war room.

The Reunification Palace was left just as it was in 1975 when the Palace was evacuated and is a real time capsule. We remember as teenagers seeing on the newsreel, helicopters landing on the Palace roof, people being evacuated and the HCM tanks pushing through the gates. The Palace tour is amazing and totally recommended. Once inside you are plunged back in time to the mid-1970’s lifestyle and technology. Seeing the technology of the time and knowing the technological advancements made in following decades, is truly the most astonishing thing.

Military radio transceivers - circa 1970.

The Cu Chi Tunnels were a similar highlight for us and just as interesting as the Palace. Having heard and read accounts of the North Vietnamese living, communicating and using these tunnels as a conduit to conduct war, and then actually seeing and wandering through them, is astonishing. The tunnels are exceedingly small, cramped, claustrophobic and extremely hot and humid. How the Vietnamese managed to carry out life and death missions is mind blowing.

Inside the tunnels.

The tunnels are very well camouflaged with jungle all around them and leaf litter or plants right on top of them, foiling the enemy. There are also various booby traps set in and around the tunnels so if the enemy got too close they were often caught in various traps hidden in the ground. You can also have a go at firing one of the Vietnamese and American rifles/guns of the time in the nearby shooting range.

Tunnels are well hidden below the jungle floor.

Ground level well camouflaged booby traps.

43) Cambodia: Backpacking. 30 July to 16 August, 2016.

We had itchy feet and finally we were able to leave the boat and set off in a taxi to Sihanoukville, or ‘the ville’, to catch the Giant Ibis bus to Phnom Penh. Once out of the two cities it was quite a picturesque and pleasant drive north. Heading into the centre of Phnom Penh we really did get a glimpse of a bustling city in transformation, from an older poorer capital on its way to a modern city. We caught glimpses of everyday life for the poor on the outskirts of town to the more upmarket areas where the well-off now reside. One memorable moment that was not able to be caught on film, was how to fit a family of five, a dog and two bags on one bike and still keep it upright, amazes us to this day.


We had booked a hotel on-line that would be central to sites that we wished to visit in the capital. We had not used on-line bookings much before, as for decades we always arrived in a destination, we went to the area we wished to stay and hunted for the right hotel based on cost and checking the room. So we were a bit dubious about what we were going to get, as pictures can be a bit deceiving at times. As it turned out we lucked out, as we were right in the centre of the action and just off the Mekong River. Luckily our hotel was set back from the road and was quiet, as we don’t mind ‘cheap and cheerful’ as long as it is clean, comfortable and quiet, and that is precisely what we got.


The restaurant and bar scene around our area was fantastic and every night we tried something different – Cambodian cuisine similar to Thai food, Cambodian cuisine similar to Vietnamese food, Khmer food (traditional Cambodian food) and of course western food. This was usually followed by a visit to a local bar, talking to other tourists, ex-pats and locals, while consuming a two sensational and very cheap Margaritas’.

The Royal Palace, Phnom Penh.

Through the day we spent hours walking everywhere, and was great exercise for us. Being on a boat, unless you are swimming or snorkelling daily, there is a distinct lack of aerobic exercise, as running around the deck does not really cut it. It was indeed a hard slog for us though, because it was full sunshine every day, very humid, and with the temperature ranging in the mid to late 30 degrees. Luckily we were well accustomed to this type of weather, having lived in the tropics since 2013. We visited the stunning Royal Palace, the Russian market and Psar Thmei (the immense art deco market).

The Royal Palace.

The Royal Palace is a must see as the buildings are many, very ornate, and spread around a reasonably large site. Hence many visitors come to visit – locals, monks, Cambodians and foreigners. There are two visits sessions per day with a break in between for lunch. We easily completed the site in about 4 hours during the afternoon setting. The Russian market is very interesting in its own right and you can find anything from food, groceries, hardware, metal work, basic kitchen and household appliances. Warning, it is a bit of a rabbit warren and you can easily lose your bearings and end up going down the same set of stalls many times over. Psar Thmei is vast looking at it from the outside and houses a lot of very upmarket stalls, particularly a lot of gold jewellery stalls. Very tempting but we resisted somehow.

The Royal Gardens.

Some sites we did not visit – namely the killing fields of Choeung Ek and the S-21. Having lived during the time of PolPot’s 4 year reign of terror we were reasonably well versed in the gruesome history. It is estimated that the Pol Pot regime tortured and killed between 1 to 3 million Cambodians in that short time and mostly the elite and educated. After visiting Auschwitz some decades earlier I have never been able to erase from memory the horror that I experienced visiting there and really did not want to add this terror to the list. We did not live during the Second World War and felt it was important for us to visit Auschwitz to see things for ourselves. Similarly, if you did not live during Pol Pot’s reign, I think it is mandatory that you learn first-hand what went on there. After talking to locals of all ages it is easy to see the devastation that this history has had on Cambodians. They are moving on and get on with everyday living, but the trauma experienced is still very much evident and hidden just below the surface of their smiling faces. I think the younger generation will be able to propel the country forward into what we hope will be a more prosperous and happy future.


By day 5 we took the Giant Ibis bus to Siam Reap which is the town where the stunning wat region is located, known collectively as Angkor Wat. We purposely got a hotel a few kilometres out of the bustling party scene town and one with a pool, usually walking into town for dinner every night.


You can visit the extensive Angkor Wat site by hiring a bike in town or just inside the gates to cycle around, which would be fun if you are very fit and used to cycling. However, It is the vast distance to be covered in tropical heat that is the draining part of this option. For the less fit, all hotels organise package tours of the Angkor Wat site via a tuk tuk (taxi) driver. There are two main packages commonly on offer, which allow you to view a selection of Wats, all in a day. You could of course visit every wat on offer but you would need to negotiate this with the hotel to extend beyond the general package option and you would need at least a week, as there is a lot to see. However, even taking one of the day tours is enough to immerse yourself in the region. The tuk tuk driver takes you firstly to the wat ticket office located just outside the town, whereby you can purchase a daily, 4 day or weekly pass.

Each bust is unique.

Then it is off to the main gates of the site where you can elect to walk across a bridge to enter into the grounds. On both sides of the bridge are carved stone busts of everyday people, each is totally unique and not one is repeated. Your driver then takes you to the various individual wats and you have plenty of time to see each wat, while your driver waits outside. It is an extremely long hot and humid day and luckily we were there in the best season when the daily temperature only reaches 35 degrees and not the early 40’s in the hot season. We were prepared though and wore breathable long sleeved shirts, pants, a hat, and comfortable joggers. We carried plenty of block out, insect repellent and the most necessary, plenty of water. Other tourists toured the site in shorts and T-shirts, most were burnt to a frazzle by the end of the day and some even suffered heat stroke.

Impressive Angkor Thom.

We stopped for lunch at one of the small outdoor restaurants and replenished water supplies before heading off for further wat inspection.

Walkway to Phimeanakas.

Later in the day we finally visited our last and best wat - Angkor Wat. It was a great idea to visit the most impressive wat last. We managed to queue to reach the highest platform to see the vista before 5pm, when the viewing from this level ceased.

Vista from the third tier.

After visiting the inside and outside of the wat it was a most memorable experience to view Angkor Wat from across the lakes, as the sun set. All up we had managed to see about 8 wats in various stages of repair and disrepair before the crescendo of Angkor.

View of Angkor Wat.

After a long hot exhausting day we cooled off in the pool for an hour before heading out to dinner. It was truly a fabulous but exhausting day. We had intended to do more tours in the following days but on reflection felt we were sated and did not need to experience more.


After 4 days we returned to Phnom Penh for a further two nights before heading back to the ville by bus. We were told there is a rail journey that now connects the two cities and goes through some lush territory en-route. We did check this out and found the return journey we needed was mostly overnight and totally defeating the purpose of the scenic rail journey, so we opted for a quick Giant Ibis bus ride instead.


On return to 'little Harlem' and our boat in the marina we were so pleased to note that no damage had occurred while we were away, even though the region experienced some SW season storms the boat was tied well and we were safe. The electricity supply did not fare so well though and we were told that the area had suffered regular power outages most days. We did lose a few items in the freezer and luckily it was not a lot as we had not provisioned since Pattaya, Thailand. Having re-assured ourselves that all was good and the boat was in good hands we felt safe to head off on our next journey – Vietnam.


Procedures: We would recommend the procedure we undertook for entering Cambodia. It is costly but essential if you want longer than a1 month tourist visa. If 1 month suits then you can easily arrange a taxi driver to take you to the various offices and check in to the country by yourself without the associated costs.
Fuel and Water: The marina does have water but no fuel. The water is rain water collected in a tank. We did replenish with it as we have a very good filtration system on-board and suffered no problems after drinking it. If you do not have a great filtration system it would be wiser to drink bottled water, available everywhere. Fuel can be brought from the local service station nearby via jerry cans and a taxi. We had filled our tank before leaving Pattaya, Thailand and given the small Cambodian coastline did not need to replenish. Provisioning: There is a fabulous dry and wet market in town, offering a huge range of vegetables and meats. Within walking distance there is also a reasonably well stocked supermarket that caters to local and international tastes. Cambodia uses American dollars and there are many ATM’s on offer.

42) Cambodia: Cruising the Southern Shore. 14 to 24 July, 2016.

We have had an awesome time in Malaysia and Thailand since late 2015 and have enjoyed the Sail Malaysia rally, meeting and cruising with new sailing buddies, the sights, the smells, and as always the friendly locals. Combined they have made our time here truly exceptional. But we are so excited today to be entering a new phase of our cruising life story; as it marks the start of our Cambodia, Vietnam and Laos tour.

Cambodian mainland and islands.

The coast line of Cambodia is relatively small in size, but it certainly does pack a punch. What it lacks in quantity it definitely makes up for it in quality. The islands are all very close, which is great as there are no long hard slogs to do and certainly no overnight passages.







The islands are forested; some have resorts and some just small local villages.
Importantly, there are also some great protected anchorages. The east side of the islands offer great protection in the SW monsoon while some of islands offer shelter when the NE monsoon season prevails.

We had a little bit of wind on the nose, unusual for this time of year, crossing the border between Thailand and Cambodia, so we had little to sail with and it was from the wrong direction. So we motored down the coast stopping at Koah (island) Kong and Loah Rung, overnight. We could have stopped at some of the smaller islands along the way but we had not officially checked into Cambodia yet so it was not wise to dilly-dally.




The next day we made haste to Koah Pos to anchor, for check-in. I was in the cabin preparing the documents when I noticed the Captain had started doing donuts. Returning quickly to the cockpit I understood why. He was circling around what appeared to be a human being. On closer inspection our worse fears were founded, it was indeed a human being floating face down in the water. It was obvious from the deck that the poor gent had been dead for quite some time. We immediately attempted to alert the authorities on channel 16 but no one answered. After four attempts we aborted this plan, took a photo for verification and continued on our way to Koah Pos. We took the dinghy to the mainland beach, and the Captain went across the road to attend to Customs, Immigration, Quarantine and Port Authority.

Pretty Koah Pos. South of Sihanoukville harbour.

We could have elected to check in ourselves but this would have only given us a 1 month visa, and we needed a 3 month visa with multiple entries, to allow us to travel over land and back pack for the duration. This cost us $USD 300 on entry and $USD 100 US on exit, quite expensive but we thought it was worth it. The advantages of this type of visa check in were obvious from the start. All the officials from each discipline came to meet us at an easy location and the check-in was fast, seamless and no hassle. On completion they then took the Captain by car into the town to get money from the ATM and a SIM card, great service in under 2.5 hours, whilst I waited on the beach entertaining the local children. It would have been a different story checking in ourselves, going to all the different offices via taxi and waiting to be processed, all up most of a day. After the officialdom Peter notified them of the body – verification with a photo and co-ordinates of the location were given to the officials. This piece of paper was passed around the table from person to person, with no one seeming to want to take responsibility for any follow-up action. The Police were finally notified, a statement was made and we were off leaving them to deal with the situation.


Now that we were officially allowed to roam we set off to explore Cambodia’s islands over the course of the next 2 weeks. We visited Koah Rung, Koah Kong, Koah Ta Kiev, Koah Pos, Koah Rong Sam Lem and Koah Ses, on the border with Vietnam. All anchorages offered great protection from the SW monsoon and we spent our time snorkelling, swimming, circumnavigating in the dinghy and relaxing. We never saw another yacht as we were told that there was only one other cruising in the country, and 8 permanently in the marina.






Some modern housing on Koah Ta Kiev.

We were later told by an ex-pat on one of the islands that it is not wise to report bodies to the local authorities as they consider the last person to see the body, to be the murderer. It is also not unknown for bodies to wash up on their shore line and they just quietly bury them. The bodies are often fisherman that have fallen off their fishing trawler, and after witnessing local fisherman hang off their stern to toilet, it must be very common. One freak wave and they lose their footing, in they go and the boat continues on its way with the loud motor sadly drowning out their cries for help.

Looking south from Koah Ses to Vietnam.

Time was moving on and the backpack beckoned so we motored back to the marina. Once in the harbour, known colloquially as ‘the pit’, we tried to anchor, which took 8 frustrating attempts. The bottom has been scoured out to make the harbour and offers little mud to secure your anchor, and to make matters worse it is filled to the brim with plastic bags, so it is a bit like slip, sliding away with every attempt. We had been conversing with the friendly Russian manager via email for a number of weeks and he was expecting us, but on arrival he was not there. Luckily one of his friends and fellow yachtie made arrangements. Rumour had it that the manager had been rounded up by Interpol and taken back to the homeland. There is a large population of Russian ex-pats in Cambodia and a lot of Russian money and it is apparently quite common for Interpol to do a regular trawl through the population looking for people of interest. Whether that is true and also included our manager, we will never know.

The ‘marina’ is really just one long jetty with rust issues and you tie up stern to the jetty, whilst a local boat boy dives down through dirty water to secure your bow rope to a sea floor structure, and fenders are placed between all the boats. The marina is located in the SW corner of the pit in an area known as ‘little Harlem’. We were quite concerned about leaving the boat there as the SW storms do pummel the man-made rock wall harbour, and we imagined easily scraping our next door neighbour. So change of plans, we would tour Cambodia for 10 days or so and return to assess the situation, before heading off to Vietnam and Laos for an extended period of time.

41) Thailand: East and South East Coast. 13 June to 14 July, 2016.

It was the SW monsoon season (May to November) and this monsoon generates tropical lows that deliver lots of rain, wind, and poor sea states to western Indonesia, the west coast of Malaysia/Thailand, and Myanmar and even cyclones up into the Bay of Bengal, towards India and Bangladesh. Therefore anchorages on the west coast are generally ugly; so you either hole up somewhere safe, go into a marina or head to the east coast, and the latter is what we did. The NE monsoon is inactive at this time of year and the Gulf of Thailand offers a pleasurable cruising ground. Big weather systems do easily carry across the lowlands of southern Thailand and enter into the Gulf, so it is quite normal to get days of bad weather, with storms common in the late afternoon. But being anchored along the east coast by that time of day, it quickly passes and no swell is generated, as the land is directly in front of you (a lee shore).

We crossed into the east coast of Thailand and a new cruising ground for us, with much excitement. The SE coast is still a no go zone for tourists due to some political unrest in the region. Our idea was to remain unseen by land and out of trouble, as much as possible. So leaving at first light and anchoring every night just before dusk and well off-shore, was the plan. It worked and we didn’t see many craft and only a few fishermen and they left us alone. We made haste north, sailing, motor-sailing and motoring along the east coast around 70nm a day. Overnight stops were: just south of Songkhla, Ban Pak Rawa, and Ban Pak Nakhon, before reaching the western side of Koh Samui.

Islet off the southern shore of Koh Samui.

We anchored in the western bay of Koh Samui 3 days later to officially check into Thailand. Customs and Immigration were very pleasant, efficient and advertised official charges openly. However, this was not the case with the Port Authority. After receiving assistance to fill out the online form, which is in Thai, we were asked to pay 1000B ($40), clearly a bribe as we were told that there was no official charge.

 

NE bay of Koh Samui. Storm clouds approaching.

After completing the necessary formalities we decided to put this ugliness to one side and enjoy our time in Koh Samui. We anchored in the northern bay which offered good protection from the bad weather systems and spent time traversing the island by tuk tuk, checking out the local villages along the way. Evenings were spent ashore in one of the lovely beach side restaurants, where friendly staff served the most gorgeous Thai or International food, as we watched the world go by and the sun set.

We also spent a few days checking out neighbouring Koh Pha–ngan (not to be confused with Koh Phayam on the west coast of Thailand). We enjoyed both islands immensely, the laid back feel, the people, the Thai food and vowed to spend more time here on our return.

We quickly made haste north over the next few days into the Gulf of Thailand and across to Pattaya, stopping overnight at: Chumphon, Tap Sakae and Koh Sattakut.  We promised our friends, Ron and Peter that we would meet up with them for a week, sometime during their 6 weeks stay. Due to lengthy boat work in Malaysia we just made the final week of their holiday, phew.



D, Ron and Pete on board for sundowners.

We anchored just off the western beach in Pattaya but after two days of increasing swell, we had to move into the marina, for the worst days of an approaching storm front. Pattaya does get the full brunt of storms from the SW monsoon as it easily traverses the narrow lowlands of southern Thailand and into the Gulf. With the open body of water in the Gulf the swell easily builds up and hits the city’s western facing shore.

The Pattaya marina has prices similar to Australia ($$$), so after 2 days and after the worst of the storm, we anchored for the rest of the week on the eastern shore of nearby Koh Lan. Catching the ferry over when we needed to check out Pattaya and spend time with our friends. After 9 days socialising, eating, drinking, travelling and provisioning, we left Pattaya and Ron and Peter, to head south to beautiful Koh Khram.

Drinks after dinner with our Thai friends.

Though Pattaya sees a lot of visitors, usually by the plane loads, there are not that many yachts cruising the islands in the Gulf of Thailand. It does not get near enough attention and certainly nowhere near that of west Thailand. The islands between Pattaya, along the SE Thai coast and the border of Cambodia are stunning. Geographically speaking they are all quite close in proximity and it is an easy day hop, skip and a jump to the next one. The furthest apart being only 55nm.

We spent a leisurely time cruising and checking out Koh Samet, Koh Chang and Koh Kut. Each had their own identity, were very low key and a lot less touristy than Koh Samui and Pattaya, a bit like a breath of fresh air.



NW bay Koh Chang.

We checked out of Thailand at the small seaside town opposite Koh Chang where you will easily see a large long wharf off a nearby beach. We anchored off the NE side of Koh Chang and took the dinghy over to the wharf tying up underneath almost so to be out of the way of the ferries. Formalities were very quick and low-key due to the King of Thailand’s passing. The mood of the town and people was very sombre and respectful, as he was very much loved by the Thai people.

We were processed very efficiently by Immigration, Customs and the Port Authority. The lady at the Port Authority did not request a charge for completing the on-line form and it seemed to us that the PA in Koh Samui was an aberrance. However on picking up our paperwork the next morning, we were told that we needed to pay a fine of 1000B ($40) because we had neglected to check out with the Port Authority on leaving Koh Samui. We were unaware of this formality as it is not required on the west coast of Thailand, where you check into/out of the country, once, and then you are free to travel the length of the west coast. Funnily enough this was the exact same amount that was requested in Koh Samui, and not paid. It appears that the official managed to get his bribe money one way or another.

We spent the night anchored off the north coast of Koh Kut, which was very quiet and peaceful. We left very early the next morning as we were very excited to be heading into Cambodia as it was a new cruising destination and a place where we could leave the boat to backpack around Vietnam, Laos and inland Cambodia.

Procedures: 1) Ko Samui: Immigration is a newly completed building in the middle of nowhere. It is on the north coast and towards the main town (on the west coast). As no one knew where it was, we took the dinghy to the nearest beach walked up to the main road, crossed a bridge, turned inland and walked about two km to the new building. The lady who does the clearing in for yachts is downstairs under the stairs rather than upstairs with the offices are located. 100 Baht pp. Customs is free and is just opposite the wharf on the western side of the island. However, you are required to sign a form stating that you will pay a fine if you do not leave the country with your boat when your visa expires. It is 1000 Baht/day to a maximum 10,000 Baht/ten days. Then if your boat is still in the country you are liable for the full cost of your vessel plus GST. Port Authority is on the wharf. Be aware of bribes from this department. They will help you fill out the on-line entry form in Thai and then request 500 Baht because they helped you.  2) Pattaya: If you check into Thailand here Immigration is off Jomietan Beach. However, Customs and the Port Authority are several kms north of Pattaya at the official Commercial Port. Tuk Tuk or taxi is required.     3) Koh Chang: It is a very short walk into town from the wharf and it is easy to locate Immigration, Customs and the Port Authority.

Fuel and Water: 1) Ko Samui: Ask at the large dock when checking in. 2) Pattaya: The marina has both water and fuel. You pay the advertised price plus taxes. 

Provisioning: Pattaya: The Big C and shopping centre is a tuk tuk ride away from the shore. Sharing a large communal tuk tuk is the cheapest way to get around.