Sunday 14 April 2013

9) Brisbane to the Whitsundays. January to 13 June 2013.

Christmas celebrations with Ron and Peter.



All too soon the silly season for 2012/13 in Sydney had drawn to a close. It was fantastic catching up with all our friends and family, but it is amazing how quickly six weeks can come and go. Mind you the cash we set aside seemed to go even quicker. Too much partying I'd say. Time to return to our lives in Brisbane, back to the boat and back to work, for a while.






Sally and June on Australia Day.




On the drive back to Brisbane we took time out to visit Colin and Chris in Maitland (who we had seen the week before in Sydney), then Sue and Mark (who we had not seen for 2 years). It was so great catching up with everyone. Great friends, wine and food - what could be better.








Peter outside his Grandparent's old Urbenville shop.

We were due to stay a little longer in Nelsons Bay to catch up with Margaret, but after watching the news for two days and the prediction for major flooding in the Brisbane River and south-east Queensland, it was suddenly an urgent matter to get back to look after the boat. Visions of boats, pillions and jetties floating downstream and smashing into bridges only the year before came to mind. As the Pacific Highway was closed due to flooding in northern NSW, we headed inland.





Our boat (centre last row D8) Brisbane anchorage.


We had to zig and zag across northern NSW to avoid flooded roads and landslides. It only took us 10 hours to drive to Sydney, but it took 22 hours and an overnight stay to return to Brisbane. By the time we got back to the boat the River had receded and thanks to friends on nearby boats lengthening our lines, we had no damage. Moral of that story was to stay in Nelsons Bay and then return the next day.





 
Travelling along the Fraser Island east coast.



Way too soon it was April and time to head north for our second touring season of the Queensland coast. Our good friend, Lloyd was on holidays and had decided to accompany Peter from the Brisbane River, up along the east coast of Fraser Island, to Gladstone. As I had done this leg many times I stayed at Lloyd's place to get some work. I then drove Lloyd's car up to Gladstone to meet them four days later.





Dolphins at Great Keppel Island.


After leaving Gladstone Harbour we travelled the now familiar route along the Queensland coast, overnighting at Hummocky Island then to Long Beach, south coast Great Keppel Island. It is not often one gets to anchor off Long Beach, as the constant southerlies make this an unbearable and even frightening prospect most times. But luckily there was no wind from the south and we were able to stay here along with the local dolphin pod.







The next afternoon we moved around to the northern beach, Leeke's Beach, just as the southerlies returned. Boy did they return with a vengeance, necessitating a stay much longer than we wanted. We filled these days with a daily ride to the beach, swimming, picking up rubbish, walking and reading. 

Port Clinton - pristine wilderness.

We also had to wait until Port Clinton 'opened'. This huge, unspoilt harbour belongs to the Defence Force. When they are finished practising air, sea and land movements, complete with bombings, they reopen the Port to local sailors. So on May 1st we arrived to find the whole harbour to ourselves with no one else arriving until 24 hours later.





As soon as the weather was perfect we set sail again and quickly ticked off Middle Percy and Scawfell Islands. Since we had time we went to some of the nearby Islands of Keswick, Brampton and Carlisle, as we were trying to travel to islands that we had not visited before. We were also going to have overnight stops at Goldsmith, Thomas and Long Islands too, but as per usual a large low was making its way across Melbourne to Sydney. With predicted 35 to 40 knot winds, we couldn't risk having to wait out for up to a week until things died down again. We had to make a rendezvous in Airlie Beach to meet up with Nigel and Marina in three days time. That afternoon it was already an uncomfortable ride with winds 25 knots and swell 1.5 m, but by 8.30 pm we were safely nestled in Cid Harbour, Whitsunday Island. 


Marina and Denise - Hook Island.


Airlie Beach Marina staff allow 30 minutes to fill water and diesel tanks, get unleaded fuel, and empty garbage, recycling and poo tanks. We also picked up Marina and Nigel off their boat shuttle at the same time, then it was a great sail (getting up to 9 knots) crossing to Hook Island, and the beautiful sheltered inlet - Nara Inlet.

After two days in Hook Island it was off to Whitehaven Beach, Whitsunday Island. Rated the best beach in Australia it didn't disappoint.




Northern end Whitehaven Beach.
Nigel fishing with a Nara mud face mask.


It was a beautiful day and we spent the day swimming, snorkeling, cleaning the bottom of the dinghy, walking along the beach and checking out the island's lake.

Checking out Reverie from the sandbar.

Whitsunday Island's inland lake.



Blue soldier crabs everywhere.















 
Whitehaven is beautiful by day but due to its east facing beach it can be prove an uncomfortable night while trying to sleep. So we reluctantly left Whitehaven Beach and stayed overnight at the lovely, quiet anchorage at Haslewood Island. We had the beach and bay to ourselves. Dinner and drinks by a beautiful sunset and a nice long stroll around the beach the following morning. In the afternoon we motored two hours north to lovely Border Island. Peter and I checked out the coral fringing the island in the dinghy while Nigel fished.



Sunset at Border Island.


The next morning we set out after a big breakfast for a snorkel around the fringing reef. Nigel and Marina managed to find a bed of giant clams. Peter and I set off in a different direction and swam with a turtle for at least 750 metres. She/he was just as interested in checking us out as we were her/him. Later we all walked along the beach picking up rubbish while Nigel snorkelled back to the boat to get the dinghy. Later still we sat out on the deck and captured this beautiful sunset.








The following day it was a long sail back to Airlie Beach as Nigel and Marina's holiday was drawing to a close. The girls were all dressed up for a night out while the boy's sailed the boat back into Airlie. Just at the last moment a huge storm blew in from the south and we could not see anything in the bay necessitating us to anchor way out to avoid colliding with other anchored boats. No one wanted a very wet and salty dinghy ride to the shore and back, so the evening's entertainment was abandoned.






The following day as our guests departed the sun came out and we left Airlie again. It was late May and we were going to our most favourite sites again before we had to leave the Whitsundays - probably for good. We went over to Nara Inlet for a couple of days and then returned to lovely Border Island to finish snorkeling the reef we didn't see the last time. We returned to Airlie for our last visit and to refuel and reprovision.







High rise on Hamilton Island.




Then it was off to Cid Harbour, south east Whitsunday Island. The next day we had a quick but terrifying sail around the south of the island, past Hamilton Island to Whitehaven. Now we know why the long way round Whitsunday Island is the preferred option.









After another beautiful day at Whitehaven we sailed up to the top of Hook Island to beautiful northern anchorage of Butterfly Bay, where we even managed to get a free mooring for the night. These mooring balls are placed in strategic and popular sites to protect the coral and seabed grasses from boat anchors. They usually have a two hour limit but if you snag one late in the day, as we did, you are allowed to stay overnight. A quick snorkel at the end of the day - it was cool but pretty.

The next morning we left and went to Stonehaven - this is a beautiful spot on the west side of Hook Island. Hook Island would have to be our most favoured place. It has numerous safe and pretty anchorages along with some great swimming/snorkelling options. If you ever venture on a Whitsunday sailing holiday, you couldn't beat Hook, Whitsunday, Haslewood and Border Island as the best of all the options. Not only would you see great sites and close together, but they are only a few hours sail away from Airlie Beach.



The sand spit between Langford and Bird Island, Hayman Island at the back.


Lastly it was time to go as it was close to mid-June and we had to be on our way. We left Stonehaven and had a quick sail north past Bird, Langford and Hayman Islands. We then opted for a beautiful mainland bay as one of the final destinations in the Whitsundays.


 


There are three bays only about 30 minutes' drive from Airlie Beach but you could be fooled into thinking you were miles away from anywhere. There are no buildings and they often total isolation for anyone looking for some peace and quiet. The next morning we set sail for Gloucester Island.







It was a really different experience at Gloucester Island this year compared to 2012. Last year we were anchored off Shag Island for the Shag Island Cruising Yacht Club Annual General Meeting. The AGM is really just an excuse for five full days of fun and socialising. It was a really strange experience as last year there was over a 100 other yachts anchored around us and now we were by ourselves. It would be great if we could have gone to the 2013 meeting but we were two months too early for the event. A quiet dinner on deck proved to be the best choice and this stunning sunset farewelled a fantastic season in the Whitsundays.



Overlooking Bowen.