15) Western Australia: Cape Londonderry to Montague Sound. 25 May to 19 June, 2014.

After rounding Cape Londonderry and then Cape Talbot we sailed into a large gently shoaling bay known unofficially as Bruce’s Bay. Anchored near us was the catamaran we saw leaving the King George River several days earlier. Kevin and Janie from “Sojourn” came to our boat to warn us that sadly we should not go for a walk along the lovely beach, as a large 4m crocodile had come ashore just near where they had gotten back into their dinghy. That afternoon there were Manta Rays, dolphins and turtles in the bay. We were not that game to get in our slow moving inflatable dinghy with that crocodile around so instead we stayed safely on-board and did see the turtles and the dolphins.

The Governor Islands.

 
Because we were heading in the same direction as Kevin and Janie, we spent the next six days sailing together, from Bruce’s Bay, down Napier Broome Bay to the pretty Governor Islands for a few days, and then further south again to Mission Cove.

"Sojourn" at Mission Cove".

Mission Cove turned out to be a very pretty and safe anchorage and one we originally did not think we would be able to get into. But following Kevin and Janie we found safe passage and a deep hole in which to anchor.







In the south east of the bay there is a small creek that leads up to a beach (low tide) which you can land on and then go for a walk to the ruins of the Pago Mission. This site was settled in 1906 by the Benedictine Monks but later abondoned for a better site 30 km away, known as Kalumburu. After several days fishing, and having BBQ’s and sundowners on the numerous beaches of Mission Cove, we parted company. Kevin and Janie were headed back to the Drysdale River for a few days and then east to Wyndham, to pick up friends. 

We on the other hand were headed west across Napier Broome Bay. We decided not to stop at Butterfly Bay (a small settlement) and McGowan's Beach, as we didn't require any fuel or provisions as yet. Boats are able to get diesel for about $3.00/L right off the beach at McGowans after notifying them in advance. Luckily Kevin and Janie radioed them that morning and were able to organise fuel within the hour. You can also organise someone from McGowan's Beach to take you the 21 km into Kalumburu via a dirt track to the town market for about $200 return, we were told. Nothing is cheap in the Kimberley. With luck, you might catch a ride with someone staying at the campground into town. This is the only market in the Kimberley other than Wyndham or Derby. No doubt we would be visiting this store on the way back to Darwin, as it would be harder and more expensive to go to either Derby or Whydham. 

We were eager to cross Napier Broome Bay and neighbooring Vansitart Bay before the predicted high winds arrived. So we left the anchorages in West Bay and Sir Graham Moore Island (Peter renamed it – the Sir Peter Moore Island) for when we would return. Both these bays were exposed to the predominant SE winds and swell anyway and would not be very pleasant at this time of year, so we stayed on the west side of the Anjo Peninsula.

The next morning we had to pass through a fast flowing very narrow passage between Mary Island/mainland and the Eclipse Archipelago/reef, or take 24 hours to go the long way around the archipelago/reef. A lot of water from the two very large bays has to flow through this narrow opening, so once the tide turns, as you can imagine the flow can get very fast. So to avoid this we set off from the nearest anchorage west of the Anjo Peninsula near Sir Graham Moore Island at 3 am and motored for 2 hours to get to the channel. By the time we arrived it was dawn, there was no wind and it was slack tide, the calmest conditions we could expect that day. The crossing was at first hairy, when we didn’t know what to expect but proved harmless when it turned out to be calm. The wind turned up just as we got through and we were able to quickly sail the rest of the way across Vansittart Bay and into one of the best anchorages on the Kimberley coast, Freshwater Bay. 


On our arrival there were three familiar boats anchored around us – Melita (David and Lyndell), Liquidity II (Robin and Greg) and Esoterica (Kerrin and John), all boats from Darwin. The night we arrived turned out to be a series of stunning sunsets, due to ash in the atmosphere. We later found out that an Indonesian volcano had recently erupted and for the next few weeks we were forever cleaning pinkish grey sediment off the deck of our boat.

"Liquidity II" at anchor in Freshwater Bay.

The Tawny Nurse shark patrol.

The next day another few yachts arrived as the weather was turning nasty. A large high pressure system had formed and had centred itself over the Great Australian Bight. The pressure got as high as 1035 Hpa and we had gale force winds 25 – 35 knots for the next ten days. 

Sundowners onboard "Melita" (John & Kerrin).

It didn’t bother us all that much as we were safe in a sheltered harbour but it did cause a lot of boredom for all concerned. We filled in the time with BBQ’s on the beach, fishing, swimming in the rock pools, and every one took a turn hosting an afternoon tea, dinner or sundowners on their boat. You could say we were all firm friends by the time we went our separate ways. 








After being stuck for ten days Peter and I realised that we had two choices. Firstly, turn around in a couple of weeks time and return to Darwin as planned or take our time and get to see the Horizontal Falls and Montgomery’s Reef, in the western Kimberley. We eventually decided to take our time and stay longer than the planned two months as we thought that we may never get another opportunity to come back. However, staying for up to four months then committed us to going all the way to King Sound and down into Derby for food, gas and fuel. Not something we particularly looked forward to.

David and Lyndell.

Lyndell and David, from "Melita", were also heading west and in the same direction as us, so we teamed up together. It was great to have some company along the way plus they had been to the Kimberley in 2013 and knew all the best sights to see. 






We all left Freshwater Bay together but Melita quickly overtook us and arrived in Parry 
Harbour by lunch time. We on the other hand sailed around and arrived by dinner. This was to become the pattern whenever we travelled to the next destination together. They could just go and motor there quickly but we were subject to the whim of the wind gods.

Numerous islets, Admirality Gulf.

 

Bradshaw paintings, Swifts Bay.

After Parry Harbour, we sailed across Admirality Gulf to the Low Rocks rather than go south to the Osbourne Islands. We were planning to stay four days or so at the Osbourne's on the way back. We were to anchor at La Fontaine Island for the night but because the weather was so benign it made perfect sense to keep going, so we motored around the notorious Cape Voltaire, and into Montague Sound. Voltaire Passage is known for it's confused waters and numerous overfalls, but we had come on a perfect day and only had to contend with the strong current.

Banded sandstone, NE corner Swifts Bay.

By mid June we had sailed down to Swifts Bay, Montague Sound. The pearl farms that used to block part of the entrance are no longer there, so it was a clear run past Katers Island and into the bay. This proved to be a lovely bay and a safe anchorage for another five days of very windy weather. Swifts Bay covers almost all weather situations as there are a number of anchoring choices depending on the wind direction.

We spent the time taking the tinnie into every small bay in the eastern cove and traversing the dry and rough but starkly beautiful landscape. We wandered over wonderful rock formations and pretty deserted beaches. We also had some lovely evenings watching the sunset over sundowners and dinner.

The nest of a Sea Eagle.

We took the tinnie up a small southern creek in the eastern circular cove of Swifts Bay. Two hours later after climbing over numerous sandstone rocks and squeezing ourselves through small holes we were finally rewarded with some spectacular Bradshaw paintings. Thank goodness we found the express path on our way out. Oh well, we needed the exercise.

Salt anyone?

Lyndell and Denise.

We left the exploration of the West Bay and Southern arms of Swifts Bay, for when we returned.  

Melita and Reverie at anchor in Swift Bay, Montague Sound.

When the wind finally died down a bit we moved over to the next large bay taking the short cut, south of Katers island and then north of Wollaston Island, and into South Montague Sound. Most of South Montague Sound is unchartered territory as it has not been surveyed.


There are a few sailing 'mud maps' around and you just have to try to follow exactly the same path these boats have traversed. These maps are very rough guides at best, so you need to take it very slowly and entering at low tide is preferable. This way it helps to pick out most obstacles and if the bay shallows out too quickly you can wait for the incoming tide to save you. 

Lyndell checking out the scenery.

Even doing this, it can be very nerve racking. While Peter slowly motored down into the bay, I kept a very close eye on our depth, calling out any big changes. 







Melita had already long ago passed us and it wasn't until we were down into the lower reaches of the Sound and past Palm Island that we could see a boat in the distance. This was reassuring as we knew if they could get into the bay safely then we could too. Finally we were able to make radio contact and they provided the safest route and confirmed the depths were indeed favourable.  

The Flinstone's????

South Montague Sound ended up being a most favourable and pretty anchorage. The rock formations on the eastern shore were so weathered they provided some great photographic opportunities. 

Barney and Fred's homes?

14) Northern Territory: Darwin to Point Londonderry, WA. 10 to 25 May, 2014.

We finally left Darwin on the 10th May for our big adventure with Brian, Gayle and Pam on their 45ft catamaran “Sea Lynx”, to sail the Kimberley coast. Travelling in a flotilla is an ideal way to do the Kimberley as you have company along the way and help if needed, but you also have your own space and get to share the experience with your friends. The weather for the first three to four days was perfect allowing good progress along the NT coast by day and quiet nights for sleeping. Thankfully the good weather continued for the crossing of the Joseph Bonaparte Gulf.

Joseph Bonaparte Gulf - NW on the W.A. coast.

Both boats managed to sail all day at reasonable speed but after lunch time the wind would slowly decrease and our speed would drop down from 6.0 to 0.2 knots per hour. Worse still, on both nights between the hours of 10 pm and 3 am there was no wind at all. 






During this time Sea Lynx motored towards the WA coast as they were only coming for one month they had large fuel reserves to do this. We on the other hand were going for at least two months so we chose to sail to conserve our fuel. The depth of the Gulf was 50m plus so there was nowhere to just pull over and anchor for the night, so we just bobbed around in the Gulf like a cork, being moved slightly north or south, with the tides. Like clockwork at 3am both mornings the wind picked up. 

Both boats had a deadline to make Reveley Island, on the western side of the Gulf by about 4am to enable us to transit the Berkeley River bar close to the high tide as possible and with the early morning light. Sea Lynx made the deadline and crossed the sand bar safely but we arrived about 6am, way too late to cross. Not only was it now a falling tide (too dangerous to cross) but the weather had turned nasty and the bar had crashing waves across it. We then learnt the hard way why the Joseph Bonaparte Gulf is affectionately known as the ‘blown apart gulf’. We had no choice but to stay outside and find shelter in some small and uncomfortable bays waiting for the wind to die down, to allow us to cross into the Berkeley River safely and join Sea Lynx. After two days the weather stayed much the same so we sailed north and around into the safety of Koolama Bay to wait for Sea Lynx there.

Entering beautiful Koolama Bay.

Koolama Bay is completely sheltered from all winds other than northerlies and is the entrance to the spectacular King George River. Since winds from the north were not due until September it was a relief to be in such a sheltered bay. 






After coming into the bay we noticed a familiar boat and we were pretty sure it was a boat that was next to us in Tipperary marina. So we put in a VHF call to them once we had anchored. Sure enough it was David and Lyndell on board their 50ft motor boat “Melita”. We had only briefly met them both as they had not lived on board their boat, while we were in the marina. So we had them over for drinks and nibbles while we were waiting for low tide at 4pm. At low tide we planned to get out in the dinghy and manually measure (the good ole line and rock method) the depth of the King George bar so we could cross safely before high tide the next morning. Luckily for us Lyndell and David had already just crossed the bar in both directions and happily provided us with the exact co-ordinates we needed, a saving of several mind numbing hours in the dinghy. Early the next morning David and Lyndell started their passage west and we hoped we would catch up with them somewhere in the not too distant future.

Crossing the bar and entering the King George River.

Crossing the sand bar just before high tide was easy with the correct co-ordinates and pretty soon the river was flanked by low hills which got taller as we slowly progressed down the river.  

The King George River. 

Entering a safe harbour is always a good feeling, but this was way too good to be believed. The severly eroded sandstone/quartzite cliffs hung on both sides creating a narrow gorge. The cliffs progressively increased in size and continued uninterrupted, and were over 100m high when we finally reached the end. 

The river is deep and meanders inland for six nautical miles. It finally terminates in a sandstone lined cul-de-sac flanked by two giant twin waterfalls. You can anchor very close to the waterfalls in the dry season, when the flow is not too strong.






You see photos and have people tell you the King George River is fantastic but until you have been there it is not the same. As you can imagine this spectacle attracts a lot of attention and when we arrived there were two tourists cruise boats up next to the falls and two helicopters flying left, right and centre. Thank goodness they left just after 3.30 pm. This is the saving grace – they never stay too long in one place and being on your own yacht with your own timeframe you can easily outwait them.

The view from our boat of one of the falls.

When they left and before dark we moved up to within metres of the falls where the cruise ship had been anchored. This indeed was the prime position as you could see both falls from the back of the boat. They knew what they were doing. 







After this we had the river and more importantly the falls to ourselves. Dinner up on deck as the sun set was fantastic. Then it became pitch black and we could only hear the thundering water plunging over the cliffs and could just make out the water due to its phosphorescence green colour. It was errie and also serene knowing there was no one else around for miles and miles.

The next morning at 6 am another cruise ship must have arrived as we heard the sound and then saw large black inflatables everywhere. Later in the morning while on deck a large catamaran made its way up the river towards us, and we were jubilant to see that Sea Lynx had arrived.

The arduous climb - up and down.

In the afternoon we all set off for a long hot climb up beside the falls to the rock pools above, to have a swim. This was hard going as it is a near vertical climb for over 100m, over large sandstone boulders, in 34 degree heat and 70% humidity. Gayle and Peter had to take it easy due to their knees but we all finally made it to the top. We then walked for about 1km along the cliff face to the falls.




 

View from top and Reverie anchored close to the waterfalls.

The rock pools with the falls in the background.

Finally after many photos we could partake in having a long swim in the rock pools that feed the falls. They were delightfully cool and some quite deep, allowing you to immerse yourself fully.

The next morning we moved further down the river to check out some other smaller waterfalls. This time the climb was not an arduous one, luckily as all our muscles were sore. Later Gayle, Brian and Pam went to climb another cliff but we begged off as Peter’s knee was way too sore by this stage and my muscles were arching. They were gone for so long we started to worry. Peter tried the radio but no answer, he was about to go and look for them before it became dark but luckily we finally saw them emerge on the cliff face and then dinghy back to their boat. They had got lost and after trekking for kilometres they finally found the track and returned to their dinghy. We were so glad to see them as we were worried about finding them, as it would have been almost impossible at that time of the evening.

After three days we left the King George River and crossed back over the sand bar. At the shallowest point we only had 200m of water between our keel and the sand. Once through and breathing a big sigh of relief we anchored in Calamity Bay (the north west corner of Koolama Bay). This is the site of where the “M/V Koolama“ came to rest after being bombed by the Japanese in 1942. 160 passengers and crew managed to get ashore by lifeboats and camp here. Luckily an SOS call to the Drysdale River mission alerted help and a small boat was sent to assist them. The Aboriginal guides on the boat found the camp. Some people were taken out by boat and the sickest few by seaplane. The Aboriginal guides then led the remaining 93 passengers 150 km west, to safety at the Drysdale River mission. Some of the crew stayed and repaired the vessel, later sailing it south to Wyndham. An amazing story of what people can do in the face of adversity. 

Calamity Bay falls and lower rock pool.

No such hardship for us as luckily our day there was very pleasant. Swimming in the deep rock pools and then taking a shower at the base of the falls, was as arduous as it got for us.

Pam and Gayle.

The next morning the weather was perfect for sailing. Sea Lynx headed east and then would proceed south down the Joseph Boneparte Gulf and into the Cambridge Gulf to check out the many rivers, bays and islands found there. They would then travel slowly back to Darwin and reluctantly to work.

Brian and Gayle.

The Cambridge Gulf is in the lower reaches of the Joseph Bonaparte Gulf, where the Ord River from Wyndham, terminates. 

At the base of Calamity Bay falls.

We on the other hand, set sail with gentle breezes to travel north around notorious Cape Londonderry and then proceed south into Napier Broome Bay. 

Such an enjoyable day.

Cape Londonderry is the most northern part of Western Australia and is the point where the two great seas meet. The Timor Sea on the east collides with the Indian Ocean on the west. This always gives confused seas even when calm. Add a lot of wind, making waves and swell, then tides, currents, and you begin to understand why sailors call it “the laundry”. We were nearing the Cape when our engine just suddenly up and died. We tried but were unable to get the motor started again, so we turned around to try and make it back to the safety of Koolama Bay. Thankfully the winds were picking up and we were able to sail, tacking all the way, back into the bay. We pulled most of the sails down as we just entered the bay. Then the last little bit was rolled up and we eventually ran out of momentum coming to a complete stop in 12m of water. My goodness how fortunate were we to be able to have the wind to get back and from the right direction. If not we would have either been bobbing around in the ocean hoping for someone to tow us back or worse still be swept up on the reef that hugs that part of the coastline.

The next day Peter found the problem after two hours of toil. An algal bloom was living and breeding in our fuel tank. We had this problem twice in Queensland and had thought we had fixed it, but now it was back. Bits of the bloom would break off, get caught in the filters or block the pipes, starving the engine of fuel so the motor would stop. Due to the heat and humidity the bloom never completely goes away. You remove every piece you can see but the residual microscopic pieces eventually breed up again.

The next morning we again left early and rounded “the laundry” in calm conditions. There was a bit of westerly swell and a south easterly wind, which created a bumpy ride but it was not too uncomfortable or frightening.