It was the SW monsoon season (May to November) and this
monsoon generates tropical lows that deliver lots of rain, wind, and poor sea states to western
Indonesia, the west coast of Malaysia/Thailand, and Myanmar and even cyclones up
into the Bay of Bengal, towards India and Bangladesh. Therefore anchorages on
the west coast are generally ugly; so you either hole up somewhere safe, go
into a marina or head to the east coast, and the latter is what we did. The NE
monsoon is inactive at this time of year and the Gulf of Thailand offers a
pleasurable cruising ground. Big weather systems do easily carry across the
lowlands of southern Thailand and enter into the Gulf, so it is quite normal to
get days of bad weather, with storms common in the late afternoon. But being
anchored along the east coast by that time of day, it quickly passes and no
swell is generated, as the land is directly in front of you (a lee shore).
We crossed into the east coast of Thailand and a new
cruising ground for us, with much excitement. The SE coast is still a no go
zone for tourists due to some political unrest in the region. Our idea was to
remain unseen by land and out of trouble, as much as possible. So leaving at
first light and anchoring every night just before dusk and well off-shore, was the
plan. It worked and we didn’t see many craft and only a few fishermen and they
left us alone. We made haste north, sailing, motor-sailing and motoring along
the east coast around 70nm a day. Overnight stops were: just south of Songkhla,
Ban Pak Rawa, and Ban Pak Nakhon, before reaching the western side of Koh
Samui.
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| Islet off the southern shore of Koh Samui. |
We anchored in the western bay of Koh Samui 3 days later
to officially check into Thailand. Customs and Immigration were very pleasant, efficient
and advertised official charges openly. However, this was not the case with the
Port Authority. After receiving assistance to fill out the online form, which
is in Thai, we were asked to pay 1000B ($40), clearly a bribe as we were told
that there was no official charge.
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| NE bay of Koh Samui. Storm clouds approaching. |
After completing the necessary formalities we decided
to put this ugliness to one side and enjoy our time in Koh Samui. We anchored
in the northern bay which offered good protection from the bad weather systems
and spent time traversing the island by tuk tuk, checking out the local
villages along the way. Evenings were spent ashore in one of the lovely beach
side restaurants, where friendly staff served the most gorgeous Thai or
International food, as we watched the world go by and the sun set.
We also spent
a few days checking out neighbouring Koh Pha–ngan (not to be confused with Koh
Phayam on the west coast of Thailand). We enjoyed both islands immensely, the
laid back feel, the people, the Thai food and vowed to spend more time here on
our return.
We quickly made haste north over the next few days into the Gulf of Thailand and across to Pattaya, stopping overnight at: Chumphon, Tap Sakae and Koh Sattakut. We promised our friends, Ron and Peter that we would meet up with them for a week, sometime during their 6 weeks stay. Due to lengthy boat work in Malaysia we just made the final week of their holiday, phew.
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| D, Ron and Pete on board for sundowners. |
We anchored just off the western beach
in Pattaya but after two days of increasing swell, we had to move into the marina,
for the worst days of an approaching storm front. Pattaya does get the full
brunt of storms from the SW monsoon as it easily traverses the narrow lowlands
of southern Thailand and into the Gulf. With the open body of water in the Gulf
the swell easily builds up and hits the city’s western facing shore.
The Pattaya marina has prices similar to Australia ($$$), so after 2 days and after the worst of the storm, we anchored for the rest of the week on the eastern shore of nearby Koh Lan. Catching the ferry over when we needed to check out Pattaya and spend time with our friends. After 9 days socialising, eating, drinking, travelling and provisioning, we left Pattaya and Ron and Peter, to head south to beautiful Koh Khram.
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| Drinks after dinner with our Thai friends. |
Though Pattaya sees a lot of visitors, usually by the
plane loads, there are not that many yachts cruising the islands in the Gulf of
Thailand. It does not get near enough attention and certainly nowhere near that
of west Thailand. The islands between Pattaya, along the SE Thai coast and the
border of Cambodia are stunning. Geographically speaking they are all quite
close in proximity and it is an easy day hop, skip and a jump to the next one. The
furthest apart being only 55nm.
We spent a leisurely time cruising and checking out Koh Samet, Koh Chang and Koh Kut. Each had their own identity, were very low key and a lot less touristy than Koh Samui and Pattaya, a bit like a breath of fresh air.
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| NW bay Koh Chang. |
We checked out of Thailand at the small seaside town
opposite Koh Chang where you will easily see a large long wharf off a nearby
beach. We anchored off the NE side of Koh Chang and took the dinghy over to the
wharf tying up underneath almost so to be out of the way of the ferries.
Formalities were very quick and low-key due to the King of Thailand’s passing.
The mood of the town and people was very sombre and respectful, as he was very
much loved by the Thai people.
We were processed very efficiently by Immigration,
Customs and the Port Authority. The lady at the Port Authority did not request
a charge for completing the on-line form and it seemed to us that the PA in Koh
Samui was an aberrance. However on picking up our paperwork the next morning,
we were told that we needed to pay a fine of 1000B ($40) because we had
neglected to check out with the Port Authority on leaving Koh Samui. We were
unaware of this formality as it is not required on the west coast of Thailand,
where you check into/out of the country, once, and then you are free to travel
the length of the west coast. Funnily enough this was the exact same amount
that was requested in Koh Samui, and not paid. It appears that the official
managed to get his bribe money one way or another.
We spent the night anchored off the north coast of Koh
Kut, which was very quiet and peaceful. We left very early the next morning as
we were very excited to be heading into Cambodia as it was a new cruising
destination and a place where we could leave the boat to backpack around
Vietnam, Laos and inland Cambodia.
Procedures: 1) Ko Samui: Immigration is a newly completed
building in the middle of nowhere. It is on the north coast and towards the
main town (on the west coast). As no one knew where it was, we took the dinghy
to the nearest beach walked up to the main road, crossed a bridge, turned
inland and walked about two km to the new building. The lady who does the
clearing in for yachts is downstairs under the stairs rather than upstairs with
the offices are located. 100 Baht pp. Customs is free and is just opposite the
wharf on the western side of the island. However, you are required to sign a
form stating that you will pay a fine if you do not leave the country with your
boat when your visa expires. It is 1000 Baht/day to a maximum 10,000 Baht/ten
days. Then if your boat is still in the country you are liable for the full
cost of your vessel plus GST. Port Authority is on the wharf. Be aware of
bribes from this department. They will help you fill out the on-line entry form
in Thai and then request 500 Baht because they helped you. 2) Pattaya: If you check into Thailand here
Immigration is off Jomietan Beach. However, Customs and the Port Authority are
several kms north of Pattaya at the official Commercial Port. Tuk Tuk or taxi
is required. 3) Koh Chang: It is a very short walk into town from the wharf and
it is easy to locate Immigration, Customs and the Port Authority.
Fuel and Water: 1) Ko Samui: Ask at the large dock when
checking in. 2) Pattaya: The marina has both water and fuel. You pay the
advertised price plus taxes.
Provisioning: Pattaya: The Big C and shopping centre is a
tuk tuk ride away from the shore. Sharing a large communal tuk tuk is the
cheapest way to get around.
