14) Northern Territory: Darwin to Point Londonderry, WA. 10 to 25 May, 2014.

We finally left Darwin on the 10th May for our big adventure with Brian, Gayle and Pam on their 45ft catamaran “Sea Lynx”, to sail the Kimberley coast. Travelling in a flotilla is an ideal way to do the Kimberley as you have company along the way and help if needed, but you also have your own space and get to share the experience with your friends. The weather for the first three to four days was perfect allowing good progress along the NT coast by day and quiet nights for sleeping. Thankfully the good weather continued for the crossing of the Joseph Bonaparte Gulf.

Joseph Bonaparte Gulf - NW on the W.A. coast.

Both boats managed to sail all day at reasonable speed but after lunch time the wind would slowly decrease and our speed would drop down from 6.0 to 0.2 knots per hour. Worse still, on both nights between the hours of 10 pm and 3 am there was no wind at all. 






During this time Sea Lynx motored towards the WA coast as they were only coming for one month they had large fuel reserves to do this. We on the other hand were going for at least two months so we chose to sail to conserve our fuel. The depth of the Gulf was 50m plus so there was nowhere to just pull over and anchor for the night, so we just bobbed around in the Gulf like a cork, being moved slightly north or south, with the tides. Like clockwork at 3am both mornings the wind picked up. 

Both boats had a deadline to make Reveley Island, on the western side of the Gulf by about 4am to enable us to transit the Berkeley River bar close to the high tide as possible and with the early morning light. Sea Lynx made the deadline and crossed the sand bar safely but we arrived about 6am, way too late to cross. Not only was it now a falling tide (too dangerous to cross) but the weather had turned nasty and the bar had crashing waves across it. We then learnt the hard way why the Joseph Bonaparte Gulf is affectionately known as the ‘blown apart gulf’. We had no choice but to stay outside and find shelter in some small and uncomfortable bays waiting for the wind to die down, to allow us to cross into the Berkeley River safely and join Sea Lynx. After two days the weather stayed much the same so we sailed north and around into the safety of Koolama Bay to wait for Sea Lynx there.

Entering beautiful Koolama Bay.

Koolama Bay is completely sheltered from all winds other than northerlies and is the entrance to the spectacular King George River. Since winds from the north were not due until September it was a relief to be in such a sheltered bay. 






After coming into the bay we noticed a familiar boat and we were pretty sure it was a boat that was next to us in Tipperary marina. So we put in a VHF call to them once we had anchored. Sure enough it was David and Lyndell on board their 50ft motor boat “Melita”. We had only briefly met them both as they had not lived on board their boat, while we were in the marina. So we had them over for drinks and nibbles while we were waiting for low tide at 4pm. At low tide we planned to get out in the dinghy and manually measure (the good ole line and rock method) the depth of the King George bar so we could cross safely before high tide the next morning. Luckily for us Lyndell and David had already just crossed the bar in both directions and happily provided us with the exact co-ordinates we needed, a saving of several mind numbing hours in the dinghy. Early the next morning David and Lyndell started their passage west and we hoped we would catch up with them somewhere in the not too distant future.

Crossing the bar and entering the King George River.

Crossing the sand bar just before high tide was easy with the correct co-ordinates and pretty soon the river was flanked by low hills which got taller as we slowly progressed down the river.  

The King George River. 

Entering a safe harbour is always a good feeling, but this was way too good to be believed. The severly eroded sandstone/quartzite cliffs hung on both sides creating a narrow gorge. The cliffs progressively increased in size and continued uninterrupted, and were over 100m high when we finally reached the end. 

The river is deep and meanders inland for six nautical miles. It finally terminates in a sandstone lined cul-de-sac flanked by two giant twin waterfalls. You can anchor very close to the waterfalls in the dry season, when the flow is not too strong.






You see photos and have people tell you the King George River is fantastic but until you have been there it is not the same. As you can imagine this spectacle attracts a lot of attention and when we arrived there were two tourists cruise boats up next to the falls and two helicopters flying left, right and centre. Thank goodness they left just after 3.30 pm. This is the saving grace – they never stay too long in one place and being on your own yacht with your own timeframe you can easily outwait them.

The view from our boat of one of the falls.

When they left and before dark we moved up to within metres of the falls where the cruise ship had been anchored. This indeed was the prime position as you could see both falls from the back of the boat. They knew what they were doing. 







After this we had the river and more importantly the falls to ourselves. Dinner up on deck as the sun set was fantastic. Then it became pitch black and we could only hear the thundering water plunging over the cliffs and could just make out the water due to its phosphorescence green colour. It was errie and also serene knowing there was no one else around for miles and miles.

The next morning at 6 am another cruise ship must have arrived as we heard the sound and then saw large black inflatables everywhere. Later in the morning while on deck a large catamaran made its way up the river towards us, and we were jubilant to see that Sea Lynx had arrived.

The arduous climb - up and down.

In the afternoon we all set off for a long hot climb up beside the falls to the rock pools above, to have a swim. This was hard going as it is a near vertical climb for over 100m, over large sandstone boulders, in 34 degree heat and 70% humidity. Gayle and Peter had to take it easy due to their knees but we all finally made it to the top. We then walked for about 1km along the cliff face to the falls.




 

View from top and Reverie anchored close to the waterfalls.

The rock pools with the falls in the background.

Finally after many photos we could partake in having a long swim in the rock pools that feed the falls. They were delightfully cool and some quite deep, allowing you to immerse yourself fully.

The next morning we moved further down the river to check out some other smaller waterfalls. This time the climb was not an arduous one, luckily as all our muscles were sore. Later Gayle, Brian and Pam went to climb another cliff but we begged off as Peter’s knee was way too sore by this stage and my muscles were arching. They were gone for so long we started to worry. Peter tried the radio but no answer, he was about to go and look for them before it became dark but luckily we finally saw them emerge on the cliff face and then dinghy back to their boat. They had got lost and after trekking for kilometres they finally found the track and returned to their dinghy. We were so glad to see them as we were worried about finding them, as it would have been almost impossible at that time of the evening.

After three days we left the King George River and crossed back over the sand bar. At the shallowest point we only had 200m of water between our keel and the sand. Once through and breathing a big sigh of relief we anchored in Calamity Bay (the north west corner of Koolama Bay). This is the site of where the “M/V Koolama“ came to rest after being bombed by the Japanese in 1942. 160 passengers and crew managed to get ashore by lifeboats and camp here. Luckily an SOS call to the Drysdale River mission alerted help and a small boat was sent to assist them. The Aboriginal guides on the boat found the camp. Some people were taken out by boat and the sickest few by seaplane. The Aboriginal guides then led the remaining 93 passengers 150 km west, to safety at the Drysdale River mission. Some of the crew stayed and repaired the vessel, later sailing it south to Wyndham. An amazing story of what people can do in the face of adversity. 

Calamity Bay falls and lower rock pool.

No such hardship for us as luckily our day there was very pleasant. Swimming in the deep rock pools and then taking a shower at the base of the falls, was as arduous as it got for us.

Pam and Gayle.

The next morning the weather was perfect for sailing. Sea Lynx headed east and then would proceed south down the Joseph Boneparte Gulf and into the Cambridge Gulf to check out the many rivers, bays and islands found there. They would then travel slowly back to Darwin and reluctantly to work.

Brian and Gayle.

The Cambridge Gulf is in the lower reaches of the Joseph Bonaparte Gulf, where the Ord River from Wyndham, terminates. 

At the base of Calamity Bay falls.

We on the other hand, set sail with gentle breezes to travel north around notorious Cape Londonderry and then proceed south into Napier Broome Bay. 

Such an enjoyable day.

Cape Londonderry is the most northern part of Western Australia and is the point where the two great seas meet. The Timor Sea on the east collides with the Indian Ocean on the west. This always gives confused seas even when calm. Add a lot of wind, making waves and swell, then tides, currents, and you begin to understand why sailors call it “the laundry”. We were nearing the Cape when our engine just suddenly up and died. We tried but were unable to get the motor started again, so we turned around to try and make it back to the safety of Koolama Bay. Thankfully the winds were picking up and we were able to sail, tacking all the way, back into the bay. We pulled most of the sails down as we just entered the bay. Then the last little bit was rolled up and we eventually ran out of momentum coming to a complete stop in 12m of water. My goodness how fortunate were we to be able to have the wind to get back and from the right direction. If not we would have either been bobbing around in the ocean hoping for someone to tow us back or worse still be swept up on the reef that hugs that part of the coastline.

The next day Peter found the problem after two hours of toil. An algal bloom was living and breeding in our fuel tank. We had this problem twice in Queensland and had thought we had fixed it, but now it was back. Bits of the bloom would break off, get caught in the filters or block the pipes, starving the engine of fuel so the motor would stop. Due to the heat and humidity the bloom never completely goes away. You remove every piece you can see but the residual microscopic pieces eventually breed up again.

The next morning we again left early and rounded “the laundry” in calm conditions. There was a bit of westerly swell and a south easterly wind, which created a bumpy ride but it was not too uncomfortable or frightening.

13) Northern Territory: Darwin - 1st January to 10 May 2014.

Seija, Amanda, Brian, Gayle, Peter, Denise and Greg.

The first half of 2014 was very busy as we were preparing for our trip to the Kimberley in May. Work continued for both of us but luckily it was heavily punctuated by social engagements with friends. A highlight being the sailing ‘stern chaser’ around Darwin Harbour on Australia Day with numerous other boats and then celebrations at the Dinah Beach Yacht Club in the evening. 

While we were still house sitting we took the opportunity to have the chain and anchor re-galvanised and the main sail and sail bag re-stitched. Repairs were significantly cheaper than buying new and it also saved us the problem of disposing of 80m of chain and metres of sail. Both these jobs were big headaches and we were pleased when they were finally completed. In the first week of February we returned from the house-sit to our life on the boat. Peter worked constantly on the freezer and the water maker to get both ready for our trip to the Kimberley.

Mid February our good friend Lynn from Melbourne came up to Darwin to see us and to check out the local sites. Lynn wanted to see as much as she could around Darwin but especially wanted to see Kakadu National Park. We were concerned about this as the roads to Kakadu had been closed for weeks due to flooding and we didn’t hold out much hope. As luck would have it the week before she arrived we had a reprieve in the rain and hence by the time she arrived, the Arnhem and Kakadu roads were just passable. So as soon as she arrived we whisked her down to Kakadu before the rain had a chance to start again. Kakadu was going to be an adventure for us too as we had not seen it in the wet before. Firstly, we did the Jumping Crocodile cruise on the Adelaide River, which is located just before the park itself. We had not done this before as it is heavily booked out in the dry season. Being the wet season there were only a handful of people on the boat allowing us to move around freely to get a better view. 

 
This tour was very different to the cruise we took in October on the East Alligator River. Here a pole line with a chicken attached, is lowered over the side of the boat, tempting the crocodiles to feed. The crocodiles were already around the boat as we were informed they recognise the ‘feeding boat’s’ engine as soon as it leaves the dock. The pole is moved higher as they jump out of the water to reach the chicken, enabling the tourists a great display of crocodile agility.






This is an amazing spectacle as they are able to launch themselves out of the water to just behind their hind legs. After a series of jumps the crocodile is allowed the chicken.

Look behind you Agro - a bigger feed awaits.

The largest male, ‘Agro’ eventually comes to the boat and all the others leave, lest they be on his menu. This huge 5m crocodile is enticed onto the nearby bank as he is not that keen about jumping and the boat is landed beside him. 






 

Something in the belly - and now for some rays.

He then tries to catch the moving chicken which he eventually gets. Our only thought at this time was we were in a boat less than 1m away from him. The boat had a small guard rail and was only about 1m above his head. You get the picture, it was very frightening to say the least. 






Back on the water we then ‘fed’ several other crocodiles before feeding the local kites, that aerobatically swooped around the boat catching food mid-flight. All in all a very enjoyable morning and highly recommended.

Denise, Lynn and Peter.

Finally onto Kakadu. All the sights we had seen last year in October were flooded but thankfully there were some other alternatives on offer. So we headed south along the Kakadu Highway to Nourlangie. The road was just a single lane in parts with the water lapping both shoulders, but we got through. 

 


Nourlangie is part of the extensive sandstone escarpment found in Kakadu and Arnhem Land. The 1.5 km track at the base of the escarpment takes you past an ancient Aboriginal shelter with some fantastic art works depicted on the cave walls. 

The dangerous spirit - Nabulwinjbulwin.

Aboriginal culture through art and dance.

 

The view from Gunwarddehwardde.

You can also climb the 600m rock to the Gunwarddehwardde lookout and see the floodplain below. Basically all the trees and folige you can see from here has been inundated by the flood waters at this time of year. When we were here last October it was bone dry. Only the very hardy and well adapted flora and fauna can withstand these two extremes on a yearly basis.

Trying to smille - 35 degrees and 90% humidity.

Much later we all went on the Yellow Water Billabong boat cruise. This cruise was again sensational and we would highly recommend doing it in the wet season. During the dry, the water has contracted to remain within the billabong and there is much life in (crocodiles) and around (birds and mammals) it.      

 

Yellow Water Billabong has pushed into the surrounding floodplain.

The car park.

But in the wet season the water is everywhere as the billabongs and floodplains have merged together. The water even crossed the road along the river and drowned the car park.









 
 

This does make seeing crocodiles hard as they are now spread out in such a huge area. Luckily one was spotted lying next to a tributary, with its mouth open catching unsuspecting fish as they swam into the jaws of death. 





Though it was the sheer amount of water that was the spectacle this time around and even the car park is well and truly under water.

Stunning.

Bluey's waterholes.

Two days later we also took off to Litchfield National Park. Luckily most of the sights and swimming holes were open.  

Wangi Falls.

Bluey’s waterholes were raging with the flood water and Wangi Falls were closed due to crocodiles. 

The Upper Cascades waterholes.

Peter and Lynn in the Florence Falls waterhole.

But luckily spectacular Florence Falls and the Upper Cascades were open for swimming and this time we had them all to ourselves, as there were no tourists around.

Peter, Lynn, Greg, Denise and Amanda,

Later in the week Lynn and I checked out the Art Gallery and the Territory Wildlife Park. Lastly Greg and Amanda took Lynn and both of us for a sunset sail around Darwin Harbour which was most enjoyable and we even managed to convince Lynn to have sailing lessons on her return to Melbourne.

Alan, more widely known as Nico, came up from Sydney the following week. He went Barra fishing on the Mary River near Kakadu for five days and spent the weekend either side of the week with us on the boat. It was great to see him as always. Much Barra was caught and he could not take it with him back to Sydney, so a quick rustle up of Darwin guests soon put paid to the Barra.

After Nico left we were running around madly trying to get everything done for the Kimberley trip. We also finally decided that we would our tour of the Kimberley would only take two months and would see us returning to Darwin by early July. This would allow us to get to Indonesia in 2014 rather than wait another full year in Darwin. 

The annual Sail Indonesia rally leaves for Indonesia on July 26^th and we had Brian and Gayle keen to join us for the trip. This event has over a 100 vessels participating yearly and is a fun, social and safer way of touring Indonesia than doing it on your own. Everything is organised by the Indonesians and it allows you an extended visa entry to travel anywhere in Indonesia. Most importantly you are spared the extra expense of forking out cash, for the various officialdom at each island. So we all ran around getting the Sail Indonesia rally entry form completed and having vaccinations.

We finally finished work in early May. The parts for the water maker and freezer had been ordered from the US and they would take about three weeks to get to Darwin. Peter was able to get the water maker fixed without too much hassle, the freezer however was another story. After two lots of ordered parts did not work we took the only option left to us and ordered a new freezer compressor. Even though it was expensive it luckily did the trick and we had the freezer re-gassed three days prior to our Kimberley departure, so it was a mad rush to get all the provisions we would need for the trip.

Sea Lynx.

Gayle and Brian were also madly running around trying to prepare their boat "Sea Lynx" as they were also joining us for a month or so, in the Kimberley.

Finally the day arrived and we left the safety of Tipperary Waters Marina and we were all on our merry way to our next adventure – The Kimberley.

Gayle and Brian prior to leaving for the Kimberley.