24) Western Australia: Marrangingi Island to Jar Island. 30th August to 8th September 2014.

We left Swifts Bay and headed directly north along the eastern coast of the mainland to Murrangingi Island. Between the mainland and the island there is a lovely spot in which to anchor and be protected from winds coming from the E to SE range and the swell coming from the West. We were up early the next morning as we were keen to round Cape Voltaire at slack tide and before the winds started to blow for the day. 

Cape Voltaire and its numerous rocky crags, islets and small islands separate Montague Sound to the west and Admiralty Gulf in the east. The conditions for our crossing were ideal - It was so calm as the wind hadn’t piped up for the day and there were no currents to impede us as it was slack tide, so we motored up towards Cape Voltaire. We thought we may enter and anchor in Krait Bay, near the tip of Cape Voltaire, to have a look around. As we approached the bay we noticed that there was only a very narrow opening between the two reefs that extend out on either side of the bay. This didn’t thrill us and it wasn’t inviting at all. It was also a shame to miss ideal conditions to get around and clear Cape Voltaire. So decision made we motored around Cape Voltaire and were able to sail almost completely to the Osborne Islands.

We did not see the Osborne Islands on our journey south and being a collection of five islands we decided to stay a few days. This group of islands offers the sailor over a dozen calm and sheltered anchorages, depending on the prevailing winds and swell conditions at any given time. We put the sails down just as we neared South West Osborne Island and then motored around the bottom and anchored in the eastern bay, protecting us form the swell.

The next day we motored during slack water through the narrow passage that separates Carle Island in the south from Middle Osborne Island in the north. The passage is made even narrower by the pearl farm leases that lie between Carle Island across to the mainland, then extending north to just below Middle Osborne Island. You basically very slowly motor along the black buoy line lying to the south and around to the east between Middle Osborne Island and the mainland. There is just enough room and depth to manage this safely. 

Will not be swimming here.

Just as we got around to the bottom of Middle Osborne Island we noticed a very large salt water crocodile sunning itself on the beach. We had intended on going to check out the beach after anchoring but decided we would give it a miss on this occasion.  

The little black line.

At first glance you are fooled into thinking that there is no bay in which to anchor that hasn’t got buoys around it or in it. However, careful navigation around the islands does revel gaps in the buoys allowing yachties access to prime anchoring locations. 

So we followed ‘the little black line’ and went around to the eastern bay, known as Cliffy Point Bay on Middle Osborne Island. We were very careful not to anchor too far to the south, as there is the wreck of the SS Sunbeam in that corner of the bay. 

Part of the pearling fleet.

Then not too far to the northern side due to the huge fleet of anchored boats and floating accommodations, that service the large scale pearling industry around the Osborne’s’. We queried whether this lease was also part of the extensive Paspaley pearling leases which are also found in a large bay near Cape Bougainville, Freshwater Bay and Jar Island, in Vansitart Bay.

The SS Sunbeam - just barely visable.

Apparently the SS Sunbeam was lost in 1892, ironically while on a pearling voyage. Forward a 100 or so years and they are smack dab in the middle of a huge pearling operation. 

Two of the three arches.

Over the next few days we managed to stay in a number of anchoring locations and also check out some nice beaches. The day we planned to check out the three arches was cut short due to a large salt water crocodile sunning himself on the nearby islet. He wasn’t noticed by us until we were nearly on top of him, so we very hastily beat a retreat in the dinghy back to the boat. Lest he followed us. 

Time to move on as it was early September and we were planning to return to Darwin by October. There was no wind so we motored north to Parry Harbour, a nice anchorage but one we had already seen. The next day we left Admiralty Gulf and had a nice long sail around Cape Bougainville and into Vansittart Bay, but it was dark by the time we reached Freshwater Bay. Luckily we could follow our previous co-ordinates for this anchorage and knowing we could safely do it all in the dark.

We then sailed south to Jar Island, a very popular spot due to the very calm anchorage which allows yachties access to the numerous art sites on the island and a DC 3 plane wreck on the mainland. We sailed south for a few hours when we started noticing the now familiar black pearl farm buoys.

We had been warned that you must closely follow these buoys south keeping them to starboard at all times and we religiously obeyed this rule. What we didn’t expect was the fact that the buoys come uncomfortably close to the northern and western shore of the island, but continuing slowly we had just enough room and deep water to get around and into the anchorage.

It is very important to not cut any corners, as there is a significant reef off the north-western corner of the island. We also arrived as advised at low tide which allows you to clearly see the rock, or more correctly the group of rocks, that you must steer around on their western side, just prior to reaching the anchorage.  

View of the western anchorage from tne top of Jar Island.

We stayed a few days after this hair-raising adventure and circumnavigated the island in the dinghy as the southern and eastern shore proved too shallow to cruise around in our yacht. 

South of Jar Island.

By the way we do not recommend doing this in a dinghy either, as the south-eastern shore even when calm has huge waves crashing around it and the dinghy was nearly swamped several times before reaching the calm northern beach anchorage. 

Northern Jar.

We were saturated from head to toe but luckily for us we had managed to keep the dinghy from turning over several times, no doubt a disappointment for the local crocodile population.

Bradshaw drawings.

 

The next few days we must have scampered over, under and around every bit of rock on the island. There is a huge amount aboriginal art above the western beach and inland from the northern beach. The art depicted at Jar Island is of excellent quality and what is now known as from the distinctive Bradshaw series. 

It ended up being a very hot and uncomfortable few days but it was rewarding with good art and plenty of exercise, something rarely offered on a boat.

Later the same week we motored over and anchored off the mainland in search of the DC3 plane wreck. We had two vastly different coordinates for the plane but after studying the book and the chart plotter we felt that the choice we made would be the best bet, and we were correct. After walking up hill from the beach, you then set out across a very flat, hard salt pan until you reach the tree line.

 

Just behind the tree line is the wreck, and amazingly still in good nick. The aluminium fuselage is still largely intact but the wings came off during the landing and engine was later removed.  

 

Apparently the plane had left Perth to travel to Broome many miles south of here. Disorientation due to bad weather, darkness and fuel reserves running low the pilot successfully landed the plane here on the 26 February 1942. All four occupants were later rescued three days later.

 

It was a very interesting few hours and well worth the trip in the dinghy.