28) Australia to Eastern Indonesia. 25 July to 14 August, 2015. .

The preparations to leave Australia were endless and I can confirm, exhausting. We had to have all the necessary vaccinations and the routine medical tests any mature couple would require in preparation for being overseas for possibly five years. 

Peter, David, Rueben and Denise.

We were also very lucky to find two extra people to crew for us for the four day crossing. Our long-time friend - David from Tasmania and a Darwin local - Rueben whom regularly crewed for Greg and Amanda on Attitude II, deciding to join us.

During the last month we were rushing around getting our visas, the CAIT (Indonesian paperwork for the boat and a three month visit), a rally briefing and BBQ, Doctor's appointments, three month's worth of larder/fridge/freezer provisioning, and lastly Australian Customs port clearance. Then there was the never ending maintenance and items to fix on the boat to ensure that nothing would give us any trouble for at least three months. All this was in addition to the usual work and day-to-day routine so as you could imagine life was a bit hectic.

 
The day before the rally was due to commence we decided to move around from Stokes Hill Wharf to Fannie Bay, near the official starting buoy. When we went to pull up our anchor we found that it had become entangled in another older anchor and chain. It was not simply a matter of lifting the older one off as it was heavily embedded in the mud below. So after much deliberation someone had to get into the water and lift it off. Before we knew it Rueben had dived in and was desperately trying to release our anchor without attracting too much attention from the local crocodiles. After much heaving and straining the anchor lifted off but then it took hold further down our chain. This happened three times until finally we were free and could leave.

Day 1: The yellow buoy - the officail starting line.

The next morning it was all hands on deck preparing so we could leave promptly at 1100 hours, the official starting time. There were certainly not 43 boats around and we figured that most had already left for Kupang. But right on 1100 hours we lifted our anchor and hoisted the sails and crossed the starting line.

Day 2: Like treacle.

The trip over to Kupang, Timor took four and a half days. The first day we managed to sail most of the 24 hours in light to moderate winds. However, by Day 2  the winds had died and we had to motor constantly because if we didn't we would have been bobbing around like a cork. The sea resembled a velvet rug and appeared thick and sluggish like treacle. 

Day 3: Much needed entertainment.

Luckily some friends dropped by on Day 3 to cheer us up and provide some much needed entertainment. Things were way too quiet for the four of us. 





On Day 4 the winds started picking up nicely in the afternoon and we were able to sail once again. However, by sunset they had increased markedly. We were nearing the coast of southern Timor when the winds increased to 30 knots. We stowed all the sails and motored around the reef system, which added a couple of hours to our journey. But hey it is better to be safe than sorry.

Kupang city.

Peter had the motor barely idling to provide steerage but still we were propelled towards the shoreline at 7.3 knots. The wind increased the swell and we had an uncomfortable six hour journey until we got into the safety of the channel that runs along the west side of Timor Island. Once inside we slowly motored up the busy channel in the dark and arrived just outside Kupang at 0400 hours on the 29 July 2015.

Dancers from Eastern Indonesia, the Governor and some sailors from the Sail Indonesia rally.

Immediately after immigration, customs and quarantine clearances the Sail Indonesia festivities started and it was an endless routine of dinners, dances, regency tours and checking out the sights. Basically we were spoilt.

The Mayors' festivities.

A highlight being the Kupang Regency Governor's and the Mayor's Welcome dinner and dance. Both events were free and were indeed a great insight into Indonesia. The people were very welcoming and accommodating and really could not do enough for us. Both events were a cultural treat as we were entertained by dancing troupes from all over East Nusa Tenggara Province (Eastern Indonesia).






It was about this time we started to realise just how many boats and participants were on the Sail Indonesia rally and more so where they had come from. At first Peter and I assumed that they would be Australian. But no we had boats and crew from around the World. There were people from - Australia, Belgium, France, Germany, Hungary, Ireland, Japan, Mexico, Netherlands, New Zealand, Switzerland, Thailand, the UK and the US. 
 
Rueben left us on the 2nd of August to meet his girlfriend in Bali and David left in the early

hours on the 4th. It was fun to have them on board and we would miss them. We too moved on, pulling anchor and sailed/motored north west to the island of Alor. The welcome from the locals was very warm and inviting. They could not do enough for us. Later we would come to realise that this is typical across Indonesia - the people are very friendly and excited to meet and converse with you. 

Some of the Sail Indonesia fleet at anchor, Kalabahi, Alor. (photo Gemini Lady).

 

More festivities awaited us in Kalabahi, Alor. There was the Expo, the welcome ceremony and the Mayor's dinner. The Expo featured dancers/performers from all over Indonesia and like the Kupang event reminded you just how diverse ethnically and culturally Indonesia is. So many events and they were all generously given to us for free.

Welcoming committee in Sebendar, Palau Alor.

Another highlight of Indonesia is the children. On islands that do not see many visitors and particularly in the eastern provinces, the children get so excited whenever a westerner is around. They may stare, smile or shyly wave. Some follow you around, some will not go into school because you're outside, or they will try some of their English phrases on you.


  

 

Too busy to go to school, Palau Lembata.

If they don't know any English you will hear the frequent "Hello Mister" just to say hello or as a prompt for you to say hello to them. Often children will come out to the boat in their small wooden canoes hoping to talk to you, maybe get a lolly or even to trade some fruit for something they could never get in Indonesia. We must admit we really enjoyed these awkward but funny exchanges with the kids.

Lawolain Beach, Palau Lambata.

Off travelling again we sailed west across the northern shore of the islands of Pantar and Lambata, often settling for the night in some idyllic bay. It was a great relief at the end of the sailing day to quickly jump into your cozzies and then jump into the cool, crystal clear water, off the back of the boat. Heaven.





We would dinghy ashore to check out the beach, or go to the local village to check it out or to buy some fruit and vegetables. Once we managed to talk the locals into cooking a traditional meal for us. There are no restaurants in these little villages and besides you would never have a traditional village meal listed on a restaurant menu. The food was good, the conversation at first awkward and basic became fun and engaging as people warmed to each other. The cost to us was minimal but it was a good income for them. The westerners brought dessert and I can tell you once tried the Cadbury chocolates and biscuits disappeared very quickly.

A great night was had by all.

A very active volcano overlooking Lewoleba - Leba Leba Bay, Lambata.

Often there was no wind as the weather was really benign sailing west along the northern coasts of the islands, so at best you had to motor sail and then it would only last for a few hours. However the currents/tidal movement between the islands were significant. We had decided to go to the major town of Lewoleba, Lambata which had everything a westerner could need - provisions, supermarkets, an Italian restaurant and even a gelato shop. But it was on the west coast of Lambata. It was one of the few afternoons we had good wind and we were enjoying the ride. But all went pear shaped as we rounded the north west coast and got into the strait. The current had changed and was now pushing against us from the south while the wind was coming from the north pushing us south. It was a typical wind against tide/current situation which made the waves stand up. It was a very uncomfortable ride for a few hours with the 4 to 5m waves crashing over the stern saturating Peter at the helm, but we held on and once we entered Lebo Lebo Bay it calmed significantly. Thankfully we would remember in future to go with the currents between the islands rather than against them.