37) Malaysia: West Coast. Pangkor to Langkawi. 26 November to 28 December, 2015.

West side, Pangkor Island.

Under way again and headed for Penang. A group of boats (Gemini Lady, Flomida, ENT, New Views, HEBGB, and others) left Pangkor marina on the high tide and headed around to the west coast of Pangkor Island. 

 

The western side has a few sheltered spots, along with nice beaches and great restaurants, what’s not to like. After two days we all headed north to Penang Island. 

It is a very long jump from Pangkor to Penang, so we all left in a group at first light to hopefully make it to the southernmost island, Palau Rimau by nightfall. Half the fleet made it to the northern bay (including us) but others had to come in after dark and still others had made it to the southern anchorage. Luckily, the fleet had been assisted by a land breeze in the morning and a northern current through the day; otherwise it would have been a different story. 

None of us like anchoring or travelling in the dark, as is common practice in Australia, but as with Indonesia there are just too many fishing boats with nets and numerous FAD’s (Fish Attracting Devices) to run into. One of the boats in the southern anchorage, who had come in at night, awoke to find themselves within a fishing net and an early morning dive was in order to enable freedom.

 

Reverie - underway.

By morning we all left early to head under the most southern and newest bridge to Penang and meet on the western side of Jerejak Island. This was the designated meeting point for a slightly unusual Sail Malaysia rally event. 

 

Nearing Penang Bridge.

The plan was that the entire fleet was to rendezvous at 7.30 am just north of the southernmost bridge; from there we would follow in a line behind lead boat Gemini Lady and pass like a parade under Penang Bridge, giving the morning commuters a thrill. Slowly but surely all the boats slowly arrived at the meeting point and we all coalesced into somewhat of a line. 

Under we go.

Then on cue we followed Gemini Lady North to and then under Penang Bridge. The event was great fun and actually a brilliant idea on the part of the Sail Malaysia organisers. After crossing the fleet continued up the channel to anchor in the NE corner of Penang Island, outside the small Straits Quay Marina.

Melila and friend.

We had four fun filled and very packed days. Welcome drinks, provisioning with items we had not seen since Australia at a store called Cold Storage, a welcome dinner at Fort Cornwallis, and then on the not so pleasant side, a visit to the Dentist. 

Graham, Juliet,Tim, Peter, Denise and Leanne.

On one of our free days six of us went on a bike tour of Georgetown, the main town in Penang to see all the sights. Juliet and Graham (New Views), Leanne and Tim (Gemini Lady) and Peter had great fun bicycling around Georgetown while I followed in a Trishaw. Learning to ride a bike whilst dodging traffic and cruising narrow walkways for instance is not a great idea, so a trishaw was the way to go.

Chew Jetty.

We went to the fascinating Chew Jetty, where the Chinese immigrants first settled. They were poor and building on land was costly but the water was free, so they built a jetty with twenty to thirty dwellings on it. No one lives there these days so most of the jetties are now tourist attractions. Then we had breakfast at an Indian stall and the food was good. 

Jimmy Choo's first job.

After that we visited several temples, Chinese (Buddhist) and Indian (Hindu), seeing street art and sculpture along the way. Lastly it was lunch at a Chinese restaurant and visiting the shoe store where Jimmy Choo was an apprentice.  

We all did a fair bit of shopping in Penang. The shopping malls all had their Christmas decorations up by this time and there were many huge trees on display, with Bing Crosby singing Christmas tunes piped throughout the mall. Even when I went to the Dentist a Christmas movie was playing on the television. All in a Muslim country - a very tolerant country. We were told that the Malay people (Muslim) celebrate Milad Un Nabi or the Prophet's Birthday on December 24. Then the Christians celebrate Christmas on the 25th December. Followed by the Indian community (Hindu) celebrating Thaipusam on 24th January and the Chinese (mostly Buddhists) celebrating Chinese New Year with three days of celebration around the 8th February. This theme continues throughout the year.

Farewell Penang.

We all enjoyed the sights and pleasures of Penang but you guessed it the fleet moved on to the next meeting point and the final stop on the Sail Malaysia rally, Langkawi.

First glimpse of Langkawi's southern islands.

We were only expecting one island but Langkawi is an archipelago in its own right, and comprises of 104 islands with only four of them inhabited. A sailor’s paradise.

Langkawi is the name of the main island and also the name of the region.

It is also the start of the limestone islands that soar out of the sea and are covered in vegetation. This island geography continues all the way from Langkawi, Malaysia and up into Phang Nga Bay, Thailand. The region made famous by the 1974 James Bond film, The Man With The Golden Gun.

 

We had a tour of the main island and ended up with a fantastic farewell lunch at the Royal Langkawi yacht Club. All of us enjoyed our time in Langkawi, Malaysia. Everything is cheap in Malaysia and about one third of what you would pay at home. But Langkawi is also a tax free island so it is even cheaper. for instance alcohol is very cheap. You can buy 4 litres of Gin or Vodka for about $10 AUD. So Peter and I stocked up on those supplies of course but chocolate was another big purchase item. Not to mention the many hardware, aluminium, and tech items we purchased duty free. The boat got an early Christmas present - an AIS. We did have one that received but did not transmit and as of 1st January 2016, Thailand expected all boats to be fitted with one.

After the Sail Malaysia rally finished mid-December a large portion of the fleet hauled their boats out at Rebak marina so work could be done and the crew could go home for Christmas. Most other boats headed north to Thailand. We decided to stay around Langkawi, spending ten days seeing some of 104 islands.

 

On the 24 December, Reverie pulled up outside Rebak marina and spent Christmas Eve with friends for a large gathering and a pot luck dinner. Pot lucks are very common with yachties and usually accompany sundowners, another favourite past time. Basically you bring what you are having for dinner and others do too. It seems to work out quite well with most main meals with a splattering of desserts and nibbles thrown into the mix.

 

The Dessert table complete with a gingerbread house.

The next day about 30 of us celebrated an orphan's Christmas. It was a huge affair with a smorgasbord feast put on by the Rebak Resort and Marina. The selection on offer was sensational and we were served sparkling wine as well.

 

We even had a visit from Santa - a black Indian Hindu Santa and a Chinese Buddhist helper Elf. You have got to love this country - they are happy to celebrate anything and everything. It was so nice to have this celebration and the resort staff were truly lovely in preparing this Christian feast.

Russell and Christine from "Christine Anne".

 

Richard and Marilyn from "Charon".

 

Graham and Karen from "Red Herring".

HELPFUL HINTS:

Procedures: Even though you are still in Malaysia, you are required to check into and out of Langkawi because of it's duty free status. You have to take documentation to the Port Authority and then a form from them to Customs. If you are leaving or entering the country at Langkawi you will need to submit and complete documentation at Immigration, Customs and the Port Authority. These procedures can be done at the Ferry Terminal in Kuah or next to the Telaga Harbour marina. There is no cost associated with any of these procedures.

Fuel: Can be purchased from the fuel barge - The Shell barge Kuah Harbour, The Royal Langkawi Yacht Club and Telaga Harbour Marina.

Water: If you are not in a marina you can fill up with water at the fuel dock at The Royal Langkawi Yacht Club and Telaga Harbour Marina, for a small charge.

Provisioning: Kuah town has everything that one could desire and too big a list to itemise here. Of note there is an excellent wet market (meat/veg) that operates early morning and late afternoon. Turn into a side street located just near the petrol station on the main road. The market is a large red building on the right hand side of the street. In the same street but further up is The Warehouse (large building with barbed wire exterior) that has a lot of provisions in bulk and beer/wine on offer. Before the wet market and on the right also is a fair size supermarket. Other supermarkets are located in Kuah town.

Getting around: There is no public transport in Langkawi. You can get a taxi at reasonable price. If you need to get a lot of things a car hire is better. Several agents operate. There is a car hire operator we used near the Ferry Terminal opposite Rebak Island. He has 40, 50 and 60 RM day hire cars. 24 hours notcie needed.