28) Australia to Eastern Indonesia. 25 July to 14 August, 2015. .

The preparations to leave Australia were endless and I can confirm, exhausting. We had to have all the necessary vaccinations and the routine medical tests any mature couple would require in preparation for being overseas for possibly five years. 

Peter, David, Rueben and Denise.

We were also very lucky to find two extra people to crew for us for the four day crossing. Our long-time friend - David from Tasmania and a Darwin local - Rueben whom regularly crewed for Greg and Amanda on Attitude II, deciding to join us.

During the last month we were rushing around getting our visas, the CAIT (Indonesian paperwork for the boat and a three month visit), a rally briefing and BBQ, Doctor's appointments, three month's worth of larder/fridge/freezer provisioning, and lastly Australian Customs port clearance. Then there was the never ending maintenance and items to fix on the boat to ensure that nothing would give us any trouble for at least three months. All this was in addition to the usual work and day-to-day routine so as you could imagine life was a bit hectic.

 
The day before the rally was due to commence we decided to move around from Stokes Hill Wharf to Fannie Bay, near the official starting buoy. When we went to pull up our anchor we found that it had become entangled in another older anchor and chain. It was not simply a matter of lifting the older one off as it was heavily embedded in the mud below. So after much deliberation someone had to get into the water and lift it off. Before we knew it Rueben had dived in and was desperately trying to release our anchor without attracting too much attention from the local crocodiles. After much heaving and straining the anchor lifted off but then it took hold further down our chain. This happened three times until finally we were free and could leave.

Day 1: The yellow buoy - the officail starting line.

The next morning it was all hands on deck preparing so we could leave promptly at 1100 hours, the official starting time. There were certainly not 43 boats around and we figured that most had already left for Kupang. But right on 1100 hours we lifted our anchor and hoisted the sails and crossed the starting line.

Day 2: Like treacle.

The trip over to Kupang, Timor took four and a half days. The first day we managed to sail most of the 24 hours in light to moderate winds. However, by Day 2  the winds had died and we had to motor constantly because if we didn't we would have been bobbing around like a cork. The sea resembled a velvet rug and appeared thick and sluggish like treacle. 

Day 3: Much needed entertainment.

Luckily some friends dropped by on Day 3 to cheer us up and provide some much needed entertainment. Things were way too quiet for the four of us. 





On Day 4 the winds started picking up nicely in the afternoon and we were able to sail once again. However, by sunset they had increased markedly. We were nearing the coast of southern Timor when the winds increased to 30 knots. We stowed all the sails and motored around the reef system, which added a couple of hours to our journey. But hey it is better to be safe than sorry.

Kupang city.

Peter had the motor barely idling to provide steerage but still we were propelled towards the shoreline at 7.3 knots. The wind increased the swell and we had an uncomfortable six hour journey until we got into the safety of the channel that runs along the west side of Timor Island. Once inside we slowly motored up the busy channel in the dark and arrived just outside Kupang at 0400 hours on the 29 July 2015.

Dancers from Eastern Indonesia, the Governor and some sailors from the Sail Indonesia rally.

Immediately after immigration, customs and quarantine clearances the Sail Indonesia festivities started and it was an endless routine of dinners, dances, regency tours and checking out the sights. Basically we were spoilt.

The Mayors' festivities.

A highlight being the Kupang Regency Governor's and the Mayor's Welcome dinner and dance. Both events were free and were indeed a great insight into Indonesia. The people were very welcoming and accommodating and really could not do enough for us. Both events were a cultural treat as we were entertained by dancing troupes from all over East Nusa Tenggara Province (Eastern Indonesia).






It was about this time we started to realise just how many boats and participants were on the Sail Indonesia rally and more so where they had come from. At first Peter and I assumed that they would be Australian. But no we had boats and crew from around the World. There were people from - Australia, Belgium, France, Germany, Hungary, Ireland, Japan, Mexico, Netherlands, New Zealand, Switzerland, Thailand, the UK and the US. 
 
Rueben left us on the 2nd of August to meet his girlfriend in Bali and David left in the early

hours on the 4th. It was fun to have them on board and we would miss them. We too moved on, pulling anchor and sailed/motored north west to the island of Alor. The welcome from the locals was very warm and inviting. They could not do enough for us. Later we would come to realise that this is typical across Indonesia - the people are very friendly and excited to meet and converse with you. 

Some of the Sail Indonesia fleet at anchor, Kalabahi, Alor. (photo Gemini Lady).

 

More festivities awaited us in Kalabahi, Alor. There was the Expo, the welcome ceremony and the Mayor's dinner. The Expo featured dancers/performers from all over Indonesia and like the Kupang event reminded you just how diverse ethnically and culturally Indonesia is. So many events and they were all generously given to us for free.

Welcoming committee in Sebendar, Palau Alor.

Another highlight of Indonesia is the children. On islands that do not see many visitors and particularly in the eastern provinces, the children get so excited whenever a westerner is around. They may stare, smile or shyly wave. Some follow you around, some will not go into school because you're outside, or they will try some of their English phrases on you.


  

 

Too busy to go to school, Palau Lembata.

If they don't know any English you will hear the frequent "Hello Mister" just to say hello or as a prompt for you to say hello to them. Often children will come out to the boat in their small wooden canoes hoping to talk to you, maybe get a lolly or even to trade some fruit for something they could never get in Indonesia. We must admit we really enjoyed these awkward but funny exchanges with the kids.

Lawolain Beach, Palau Lambata.

Off travelling again we sailed west across the northern shore of the islands of Pantar and Lambata, often settling for the night in some idyllic bay. It was a great relief at the end of the sailing day to quickly jump into your cozzies and then jump into the cool, crystal clear water, off the back of the boat. Heaven.





We would dinghy ashore to check out the beach, or go to the local village to check it out or to buy some fruit and vegetables. Once we managed to talk the locals into cooking a traditional meal for us. There are no restaurants in these little villages and besides you would never have a traditional village meal listed on a restaurant menu. The food was good, the conversation at first awkward and basic became fun and engaging as people warmed to each other. The cost to us was minimal but it was a good income for them. The westerners brought dessert and I can tell you once tried the Cadbury chocolates and biscuits disappeared very quickly.

A great night was had by all.

A very active volcano overlooking Lewoleba - Leba Leba Bay, Lambata.

Often there was no wind as the weather was really benign sailing west along the northern coasts of the islands, so at best you had to motor sail and then it would only last for a few hours. However the currents/tidal movement between the islands were significant. We had decided to go to the major town of Lewoleba, Lambata which had everything a westerner could need - provisions, supermarkets, an Italian restaurant and even a gelato shop. But it was on the west coast of Lambata. It was one of the few afternoons we had good wind and we were enjoying the ride. But all went pear shaped as we rounded the north west coast and got into the strait. The current had changed and was now pushing against us from the south while the wind was coming from the north pushing us south. It was a typical wind against tide/current situation which made the waves stand up. It was a very uncomfortable ride for a few hours with the 4 to 5m waves crashing over the stern saturating Peter at the helm, but we held on and once we entered Lebo Lebo Bay it calmed significantly. Thankfully we would remember in future to go with the currents between the islands rather than against them.

 

27) Sydney to Darwin. January to July, 2015.

Peter, Nephew Mathew and Denise.

It felt like January to April just breezed by and they did. We lived in other people’s houses the whole time as ours was rented out. Yes, we housesat and looked after pets, while friends and unknown homeowners had a much needed break. We can say it was a great experience and would totally recommend it.

Gwen (Mum), Denise, Mellisa, Kylie, Lisa (cousins) and Des.

First up, a rented house of a young couple in Lindfield. Second, my Mum’s house while they went up the coast. Then a unit in West Ryde and lastly a lovely house in Ermington, both for very good friends. Between our house-sitting engagements we stayed with my parents in their house.

A party of 20 - The West Ryde gang.

Anna, Mojgan and Denise.

Margaret, Mary and Denise.

Ron, Denise & Peter.

We spent our time helping my parents sort out some 55 years of accumulated items that were threatening to take over the garage and the whole area under the house and fixing things around the house. This work was heavily punctuated by social engagements in Sydney and up to Maitland/Shoal Bay. It was a joy to see all our family and friends again albeit very draining on the wallet. 

Alan, Michelle, Denise and Peter.

Peter, Mark, Sue and Denise.

Richard's Retirement Party - CRGH.

Denise, Lynn and Trish.

Before we knew it April had arrived and it was time to head north again. We stopped a few days and stayed with good friends in the Gold Coast then it was a few days with Peter’s Mum in Brisbane. 

Terri, Peter and Don (Dad).

I caught up with two female friends from school, whom I had not seen since the early ‘80’s and might I add we all looked fabulous. Then back up to see Peter’s Dad in Caboolture and my Uncle in the Sunshine Coast.

Finally we had stayed and seen almost every person we knew and it was time to head back to Darwin. Mostly for me to return to work and replenish the bank account, which had taken a beating and for Peter to get the boat ready for our next big adventure – Indonesia.

In contrast to our December 2014 trip from Darwin across the desert, this time the return trip was so much easier. What a difference four months can make. The weather was not so scorching hot and was lovely. It was just warm enough in the mornings to be comfortable and hot through the day. However, the nights were very cold and not having much with us, everything went on the bed to keep us warm - our clothing, towels and even seat covers. The clear sky over the desert sucks out all of the heat from the day and it can get very cold during the night.

We decided to stop off on a few places we had missed on the way over. First stop was the Qantas museum in Longreach. Now not being that plane friendly I didn't think I would get as much fun out of this place as Peter, a plane nut. But I was pleasantly surprised. It was interesting and informative and they had set it out well and had some great displays. Well recommended if you ever find yourself in Longreach.  



We viewed the Leichhardt tree which he blazed in 1844 on his was north to Port Essington, NT. Then it was on to Winton and we checked out the musical wall and the wall sculpture - both free short stops. The dinosaur stampede at Lark Quarry was closed in December and was supposed to reopen the 1st April. When we arrived it was still closed and possibly to the end of June. So obviously that was now back on the bucket list. Then finally the last town in Queensland - Camooweal.

The dolomite caves, Camooweal.

We stayed overnight at the campground and the next morning we went off-road for 30 kms in our 2 wheel drive car to check out the caves. Very interesting and the road was not too arduous. 







Finally we left the border town for the longest most isolated road journey, without any communication, to Tennant Creek. We managed to do 200 km when all of a sudden there was a squeak and then we were swerving widely over the road. Well we were doing 130 km/hr at the time. Then we landed on the ground with metal on tarmac, grinding away and came to a stop on the side of the road. We thought we had a big puncture - down to the rim but no on investigation we had lost the entire wheel up to the axle. This happened about 1100 hours, and after flagging down several motorists, eating all our food, drinking all our water and setting up our tent to wait out the night, the tow driver finally came to our rescue at 2030 hours at night and we returned to Cammoweal. Four days and much money later we again left Camooweal caravan park for the 550 km drive to Tennant Creek.

The Devil's Marbles.

This time we were successful and made Tennant Creek before night time. The next day we travelled south about 110 km to check out the Devil's Marbles. Amazingly odd shaped eroded sandstone sitting out by themselves in the middle of nowhere. A well recommended visit if you ever find yourselves out this way. 







 
We then went back to Tennant Creek to get the key for the Old Telegraph Station just a couple of kms north of Tennant. The key is free and lets you into the many buildings that were built in the 1800's. How these people built the buildings, sustained themselves, then built the telegraph lines from southern Australia to Darwin, and lived in isolation for years is beyond me. 





But apparently later they used to get 'tourists' stopping by and staying before the travellers moved north, by horseback. Now there is a trip???? 

Daly Waters pub, back garden.

We moved ever northward. Checking out the Stuart tree and the iconic Daly Waters Pub with it unique collection of thongs, license plates and other crap.

Bitter Springs, Mataranka.

Again we had a nice swim at Bitter Springs, Mataranka. This time there were a fair few tourists around compared to December last year. Many could not believe we actually had this place to ourselves only a few months before they arrived.

Katherine Gorge - stunning.

The highlight of our return trip to Darwin was visiting Katherine Gorge, Nitmulik National Park. The river cruise was not running in December 2014 as the river was in full flood because of the annual wet season rains. However, April proved to be a great time to visit. Not too much water, nor too little. We did the three gorge tour. This included three gorges as expected but also a short climb up some rocks to a spring fed lake. 

Lake complete with waterfall.

You go through each gorge on a boat and see spectacular scenery. Then you get out of the boat at the end of the gorge, walk along the shore line, past the shallow rapids to the next gorge and boat. Repeat another two times. At the end you are rewarded with a hot climb followed by a swim in some severly cold water. The tough toughed it out.







Ever northwards we just had one last thing to do. So we dropped into Douglas hot springs for a quick afternoon swim and then arrived back in Darwin in the late evening.

Our last few months in Darwin went very quickly. We house and unit sat for our friends - Gayle, Brian, Greg and Amanda while they finished off their Kimberley cruise 2015. I worked and Peter fixed the boat. 

Brian, Gayle and Peter.

Then our friends arrived home just in time to see us off. So glad they did as we could not leave Darwin without saying goodbye. These people two years ago had welcomed us to Darwin with open arms and we all had become very close. So you can imagine it was hard to say farewell.