11) Cairns to Darwin. 3 August to 28 August 2013.

In June 2013 I had applied for a nursing agency position in Darwin, to make some extra cash for the year we would be there. As soon as I had applied they were ringing to see when I could start. Apparently, they could not get enough staff to fill the two Hospitals in Darwin. Not being that keen to cross the Gulf of Carpentaria with Peter, I decided to leave the boat in Cairns and travel to Darwin and start work early. Also I was not that keen to fly there on my own either (yes, I hate flying that much) so I decided to catch a bus. This did have a plus side - I would get to see some parts of Australia that I have never seen.

Our friends, Nigel and Matthew had long ago expressed interest in doing the Top End trip with Peter. They are keen fishermen and the Top End of Australia offered some of the best fishing in the country. It is also very expensive for the average joe/ann to fish there, as you need to go out on charter boat cruises for any short term fishing trips. But being crew on our boat was free, plus Peter had a ready made crew for the month long trip. It was a win-win on both sides of the equation. 

The Low Islets.

However, the bus left Cairns on 2nd August at 1pm, the same time when Nigel and Matthew were arriving, so I missed seeing them. This date was the best time as it aligned nicely with the 5 stops I had to make to get across to Darwin. Leaving the next day, would not only prolong the boys departure time, but it would mean a much longer trip to Darwin. The boys put the fishing lines and rods out as soon as they got on the boat, getting prepared for the following morning.



Leaving Trinity Inlet, Cairns at about 6 am on the 3rd August, there was no wind whatsoever so out came the iron main. This situation didn't change at all that day and they motor-sailed the whole way to the Low Islets. The next morning they had to motor-sail again, so not a great start to the sailing holiday, but by the afternoon the trusted and reliable south east winds had returned.

The next three days were pretty predictable as they always are when making passage. A lot of fish were caught by Matthew and Nigel and fish dinners were the 'plat de jour' most evenings. Overnight stops included Cape Bedford, Howick Island and Blackwood Island.

Anchored off Morris Island.

After pulling an all night sail the boys had a lay-over day at Morris Island. The morning included a stroll around the small but pretty island. It looked like the quintessential island everyone dreams of - small, sandy and with the requisite two palm trees. After lunch, Nigel and Matthew returned to the island to do some fishing. 

The croc sunning itself on Morris Island.

Peter was sitting up on deck, not long after the boys had left, when a three metre crocodile pulled itself up onto the beach. He snapped a few photos and radioed the guys to warn them that a crocodile was sunning itself at the other end of the beach. Instead of coming back to the boat Matt and Nigel decided to go and check the crocodile out. Matt had a large stick and Nigel, the camera. The crocodile saw them coming and headed back into the water. Obviously deciding not to take on both of them and plus the element of surprise was gone.

 

Matt with his 'scaring croc' stick.

I had my own adventures on the 8th August. Finally arriving in Darwin at 5.30 pm I went to collect my luggage, but to my dismay only one bag was in the luggage hold. The tag had been incorrectly labelled Katherine, instead of Darwin. So I am lucky that one bag did actually make it to Darwin. Presumably my lost bag was in Katherine, as that was the only stop between Tennant Creek and Darwin. After speaking to five different staff representatives from Greyhound and after they assured me they had looked and could not find it in Darwin, I gave up. I decided these guys couldn't find their way out of a wet paper bag, as I too know it never made it to
 Darwin.

Portland Roads.

Ever onward and north the boys had great winds and had managed to sail continuously since leaving the Low Islets. They quickly ticked off the tiny fishing village of Portland Roads and then Shelborne Bay, in the lee of Cape Grenville. 







Finally on the 11 August 2013 Reverie rounded Cape York. Since leaving Sydney on the 11 April 2012 - 16 months exactly, Reverie was finally at the top of the country and about to leave the East coast of Australia and for a very long time. The boys stayed at Mt Adolphus Island, a small island at the top of Cape York to mark the milestone.

Honeymoon anchored at Seisia.

The last stop for a while was the pleasant fishing village of Seisia, on the west coast of Queensland and not far from rounding the Cape. After entering Seisia it was a complete surprise to see 'Honeymoon' anchored nearby. Our good friends Glenn. Julia and kids were also making the pilgrimage to Darwin. We met them over two seasons in Brisbane and had more recently caught up with them in Cairns.

The boys had planned a fishing expedition in Seisia that would see them fish the Top End for three days. Nigel and Matthew were in their element. Peter joined in for one of these days and did catch and release his fair share of fish. The other two days he rested up getting ready for the three day crossing of the Gulf of Carpenteria.


The crossing was non eventful and the only other living thing they saw on route was a large pod of small Whales or large porpoises, that surfed along with the boat for many a mile. The crew was divided but it was finally decided on board that they were Pilot Whales.



 

Crossing the Gulf with whales.

A Top End sunset.

Gove Sailing Club overlooking the anchorage.

It was a relief to get across the Gulf and arrive in Gove. Finally in the Northern Territory they were only about a week away from reaching the final destination, Darwin. So it was down to the sailing club to relax for a while. Gove Sailing Club has the only patch of grass in town.








When looking at a map of the Northern Territory coastline there appears to be numerous bays that would offer shelter and a safe haven to boats.The reality is that there are many bays that look welcoming but are often hazardous. Some bays are still not surveyed (who knows what depths and hazards await); others are too open and exposed; and most are way too shallow. With this in mind Peter went with the safest bet, stopping overnight at the islands off the northern coast - Wigram, Elcho, and Crocker Islands. The last stop was the large, deep and safe anchorage of Port Essington. The harbour is extensive and is the site of one of the original settlements (Victoria) for the proposed capital city of the Northern Territory, prior to Darwin. 

Darwin city.

After leaving Port Essington the last day was torturous and long as the winds died and the notoriously strong currents in the Van Diemen Gulf were against them. They had to motor-sail for 18 hours straight and even got down to 2 knots passing between Cape Don and Melville Island. They arrived and anchored in Fannie Bay, Darwin on the 28 August 2013. It had only taken them 25 days, well within the month time frame.