12) Northern Territory: Darwin and surrounds. 28 August 2013 to December 2013.

It was nice to leave the solitude of the townhouse and return to my life on the boat. Peter filled the many hours doing the never ending maintenance a boat requires while I worked two or three times a week. We moved from the Fannie Bay anchorage as it was very difficult going ashore, especially at low tide. We had to either drag the dinghy over about a 1km of mud flat or I had to hike across it in my work pants rolled up to my thighs, to get to the shore. It wasn’t the effort so much but the constant threat of crocodiles that freaked us out. The daytime was bad enough but don’t get me started on how we felt returning at 10 pm at night. 

Official sailing day at Fannie Bay - all around us.

So after about a week we moved up just outside the Cullen Bay Marina, lock and wharf complex. The anchorage was a little more wind and swell exposed once the protective sandbar disappeared with the tide, but Peter could just drop me off/pick me up at the wharf, a short dinghy ride from the boat. Plus we were next to our friends, Julia, Glen, Scarlett and Hunter, on board ‘Honeymoon’. 

Life hummed along in Darwin quite nicely after that. We met some great people – locals Greg and Amanda, via Glen and Julia. The six of us enjoyed checking out the sights of Darwin together. But all too soon Glen and Julia had to leave as they were on their way to Indonesia and Thailand, for six months of cruising. We had known them since Brisbane in May 2012 and we were sad to see them go. 

"Attitude Too" anchored next to the Cullen Bay sandbar.

After two weeks in Darwin the three bus 
rides to work took their toll and we got ourselves a cheap and cheerful blue Daewoo Lanos. The car doesn’t look that pretty but it goes well and has artic air-conditioning, a big plus in the tropics. Greg and Amanda introduced us to their lovely extended family (Seija, Matt, Aaron, Hannah) and friends (Gayle and Brian). So almost immediately we had an instant social life - checking out art gallery openings, going out for dinner, events at the boat club or sailing on Greg and Amanda's boat, "Atitude Too".

Before we knew it, October had arrived and along with this a few too many boat maintenance issues arose. Firstly, one of the gas burners on the stove stopped functioning. We could not get spare parts for it and the alternative was to buy a new stove/oven for well over $1000 to fix just one gas ring. Well I decided to make do with one burner for that exorbitant price. Then the pipe from the gas tank died but luckily Peter was easily able to fix this and cheaply for a change. The water maker was next and this was a major headache as we were not going to be able to fix it prior to friends arriving in Darwin to go sailing with us. We minimised our water usage and managed to partially fill our 1100L water tank by filling two 20L containers every time we went ashore in the dinghy. Then there was the long term very slow diesel leak. Peter didn’t know which way to turn first. Finally we stocked the larder and freezer full with enough food for four people for the planned two week sailing adventure. The afternoon before our friends arrived the freezer died. We were apoplectic by this stage. All that food would defrost and have to be thrown out plus how would we feed four people for two weeks? Answer: Thank God for the lovely people of Darwin, as Amanda and Greg came to our rescue. They offered a huge empty freezer at their home where most of the food could await our return. Then we froze part of the fridge which could house just enough meat for a short trip. Boy, were we lucky to get off this easy.

Sailing with Ross and Mel.

On the 9^th of October long-term friends Mel and Ross from Victoria arrived to go sailing and have a much needed rest from work. Darwin must have been a shock for them on many levels. The ever present heat and humidity after the cool of Victoria and the long sailing days sitting doing nothing while waiting for the wind to arrive, must have been a big change from their hectic work routine. 









We took them west for a three day sail to the Crab Claw Resort in Bynoe Harbour. That went well so we returned to Darwin and restocked the small fridge/freezer for another trip. This time a six day sail east to Port Essington. However, the wind gods were not with us on the second occasion so we did a lot of motoring. It was so still that the whole of the Arafura Sea was a mill pond. 

Port Essington - A lovely and safe harbour.

We were lucky to visit one of the original but failed settlements in the Northern Territory, as you can only get there by boat. "Victoria" in Port Essington was settled by a handful of settlers and Royal Marines in 1838. The English were eager to lay claim to Northern Australia before someone else did. The settlers barely managed to survive the hostile conditions and begged the English heirarchy to send a boat to collect them. The English of course, told them to tougthen up and refused to come and get them, so they had no choice but to soldier on. In 1849 when they were finally winning against all the odds, the English heirarchy decided the settlement was not a viable situation after all and sent a boat to return them to southern Australia. During this time they had built a kiln to make bricks, a vegetable garden, several brick homes complete with chimneys (for those cold tropical nights?), a Powder Magazine, a huge oven and an extensive graveyard.

Victoria, Port Essington.

Ross and Mel - outside the Powder Magazine.

 


We also had more problems arise, as it was during this trip we noticed holes in the sail bag and the main sail's stitching was deteriorating. Both would need re-stitching by a sail-maker before too long. Also the 80m anchor chain and anchor was severely rusting away and would need re-galvanising. Both these jobs would have to wait until we were in the marina for the wet season.

November arrived and we took off to Litchfield National Park for a visit. This park is sensational and we highly recommend it. Definitely must be on the “to do list” if you ever visit the Top End. 

Fields of termite mounds.

High rise living.

 






The park is not far from Darwin and has plenty of sites to visit which you can just about squeeze into one day and it’s free. Huge termite mounds, deep swimming holes, shallow creek waterholes for swimming and huge waterfalls. 

Florence Falls.

Swimming in the huge rock pool - base of Florence Falls.

At this time of year you share the adventure with huge crowds but you can still get away from most if you are prepared to hike along up the creek beds for a few kilometres in the heat and humidity. Also at this time of year they are crocodile free, a big plus in anyone’s book. 

WTF???.

It was in early November that we had to leave the Cullen Bay anchorage. The winds were now coming from the north making it too uncomfortable to stay on the boat and also the dinghy rides to shore were way too terrifying at times. So we moved around to Darwin Harbour opposite the Stokes Hill wharf, where I could easily get dropped off for work. We anchored in 5m, just outside the very deep channel that huge oil and gas tankers and cargo ships pivoted around us day and night. At one stage even an oil rig platform was brought in from the Timor Sea for repairs. Not a sight you see very often and it was a shock to go up on deck and see an oil rig platform in front of you.

Our long-time friend Cheryl arrived from Sydney on the 12^th November to check out Darwin and help celebrate my birthday. Cheryl had never been on a boat before and even the dinghy ride at times made her feel uncomfortable, especially when it was rough or dark. We purposely didn’t tell her until much later that the authorities often pull out up to 200 crocodiles a year from this harbour, as we didn’t wish to freak her out any further than necessary. Having the car meant that we could go further afield, so we took Cheryl down to Kakadu National Park, Berry and Howard Springs and a tour around the hotspots of Darwin.

A wet season storm approaching. Run for it.

Made it.

A World Heritage Area.

It was our first visit to Kakadu National Park and only a three hour drive from Darwin. Firstly, we checked out the bird hide at Mamukala on the way to Jabiru. The Top End had recent rain and so we managed to see the bird life that was returning to Kakadu after the dry season, and there were Magpie geese everywhere.

Arnhem Land (right) and Kakadu (left).

Next we went on a fantastic river cruise down the East Alligator River between Kakadu and Arnhem Land. This was an indigenous led cruise and the advantages of going on this type of cruise were immediate. 

We are learning to throw a spear.

We were taken into Arnhem Land (no permit required), had them show us the tools they use to hunt and how to use them and lastly the plants they use for medicinal purposes and food. 

Cheryl getting way too close.

At this time of year the river is teeming with fish and crocodiles. It was also low tide and every few metres there was a crocodile on the bank sunning itself. Crocodiles would normally not tolerate being this close together but because of the dry season their habitat had shrunk to the only few remaining permanent water sources. 

Yes I would like to eat you.

This was great for viewing them but at the same time it was very intimidating. The low lying open boat was surrounded and you definitely understood what it felt like to be on the menu. Something we humans don’t get to feel very often. This cruise is a must do if you ever get to travel to Kakadu.







After lunch at Jabiru we went to the Bowali Visitors Centre to check out the excellent museum and a film about Kakadu. The last trip of the day was a short drive to Ubirr Rock. The raised sandstone plateau (Arnhem escarpment) is particularly significant to the Aboriginal people as the caves supported life close to a major food source (the floodplain) and the sandstone walls provided great canvases for their art.

Part of the Ubirr art gallery.

Art crowded into every available space.

Stunning colours.

The Nadab floodplain.

You are also able to climb the 250 m sandstone plateau to get a great view over the Nadab floodplains below and watch a stunning Territory sunset. After a very hot, humid and exhausting day we drove the three hours back to Darwin. Thank God for the artic air-conditioning. 

Beautiful Berry Springs.

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After five days of touring the major sights Cheryl returned to Sydney and I returned to work. On the 23rd November Darwin was alerted to a cyclone approaching. Our first and a week before the official start to the wet season. We decided it was much safer to be inside a marina so the next day we moved into Tipperary Waters marina. Over the next few days the warnings increased while we got all the food supplies we would need, prepare our cyclone kit and remove everything from the deck. It was so exciting neither of us slept a wink as the cyclone came through overnight. Luckily it was only a category 1 so it was more fun than scary. Obviously also fun for the locals, as there were numerous ‘cyclone parties’ the night before its arrival. 

We met some lovely people, Todd and Jo at the marina, and Peter was able to get some work with Jo, mowing lawns. This job nearly killed him, as mowing lawns in Darwin in the dry season is not for the heart hearted, but doing this job in the wet season was almost suicide. They would drink 7 to 8 L of water a day but did not urinate once, as it just replenished the sweat that had been lost. Hence, they absolutely stank when they came home in the evening and I often thought of putting the water hose on Peter before he came on board the boat.

We also managed to get a house-sit for 2 months with work colleagues, via Amanda. The house had air-conditioning, a fantastic pool, and was near my work. The big plus was the marina fees were heavily discounted because we were not living on the boat. I was able to take the bus to work while Peter took the car. We spent most of the two months in the pool – it was a God send for the wet season.

Our 20th Wedding Anniversary.

 



Before we knew it the end of the year was upon us. We celebrated our 20^th Wedding Anniversary in style at a Greek restaurant in the waterfront. 







 

Christmas with Greg and Amanda.

We were also lucky to celebrate Christmas with new friends as we were invited to join Greg,Amanda and family for their annual Christmas brunch. The food and wine were sublime and it was great celebrating with such lovely people. 

2013 NYE (complete with granny glasses).

2013 had been a huge year for us and we had travelled hundreds of miles and seen so many beautiful things. As usual though it had gone too fast. On New Year’s Eve we celebrated by going down to the Waterfront to watch the 9pm fireworks, then have dinner with Amanda and Greg and lastly bring the year to a close by watching the midnight fireworks at the Casino.