21) Western Australia: Derby to Yampi Sound. 24 July to 6 August, 2014.

After managing to get all the food and fuel on the boat and the car returned we stayed not a moment longer as we had hit the jackpot to get out of Derby, safely. There was wind from the right direction (for a change), it was still neap tides (lower high tides and higher low tides), it was high tide (to get over the bar) and lastly the ebb tide (out-going) was about to start and would help propel us north, up King Sound. The only problem was that it was just a few hours before dark, so we sailed until dusk and then pulled up on the nearest mud flat, 15m deep and waited out the night. We did this two nights running and they were not very pleasant. Not only was the incoming or outgoing tidal streams screaming past us but the wind came up overnight and made it very rocky, as there was no protection for our boat from the land. Not much sleep was had during either of the two nights – attending to anchor alarms and being tossed around the bed, doesn’t make for much sleep. 

The next week saw us slowly make our way north. As you know we have to sail to conserve fuel plus we didn’t see beautiful King Sound on the rush south to Derby. Not many cruisers make it to King Sound, so it is a bit of a well-kept secret that the upper half is stunning. The lower half approaching Derby is made up of low lying lands, mud flats and brown water. In contrast the upper coast is hilly, has numerous islands, lovely beaches and crystal clear water. The islands and jagged mainland make for plenty of sheltered anchorages where you can get out of the tidal stream and rest up before again tackling the hair-raising water rush north.

Eddies and whirlpools everywhere.

The sheer volume of water that moves in and out of King Sound each tidal period is amazing, and it creates a lot of overfalls, eddies and whirlpools in the process. Sailing through some passes is not an option as the current just takes you on a ride. To add to the complexity there are numerous reefs, rocky crags and islands, so negotiating them under motor and near slack tide is a much more comfortable experience.  

Northern King Sound.

Unnamed bay.

Slowly we made our way north stopping and sheltering in as many anchorages as we could get into and out of safely. Of note there was Crystal Bay, the northern and southern bays of the Gerald Peninsula, Strickland Bay, the eastern side of Whirlpool Pass and a small un-named bay on the western side of Hidden Island. All these anchorages were deep, protected from the current and pretty.




At the northern extremity of King Sound we motored on the ebb tide north around the western tip of Hidden Island and into pretty Yampi Sound.

Silica Beach, Yampi Sound.

There are numerous yellow sand beaches on Hidden Island but right smack in the middle of them sits a large pure silica beach. It is so white you can see it for miles. Anchorage around this area is too deep and it would be a worrisome night’s sleep, so after a good look around Silica Beach, we headed next door to Coppermine Creek. 




Yampi Sound is blessed with five river systems and all of them offer boaties safe and pretty anchorages - heaven. By the time we arrived in Coppermine Creek it was pitch black so we navigated with the chart plotter and headed for the deepest entry point. This was one of the few bays that was charted so we prayed that it was correct. Just inside the river is an anchorage and we quickly anchored in the lee of the eastern headland, in 12m. We didn't want to risk going in any further in the dark.

Cruising with dolphins, Coppermine Creek.

The next morning we didn’t bother moving, even though we could have gone in further the previous night. It was deep and quiet, so why bother. Coppermine Creek is on the list of our favourite anchorages and is a large body of water the goes inland for at least 4nm. There are numerous eastern bays, some excellent cyclone anchorages and even a bay that opens to the ocean further east.

Fishing camp, Oyster Bay in Coppermine Creek.

On the west is an abandoned fishing camp with a beautiful beach and plenty of yummy black lipped oysters. Hence that night Oysters Kilpatrick was on the menu for me and Oysters Naturale for Peter.

After a few days at Coppermine Creek we headed east to Myridi Bay. This bay is a relatively short, narrow watercourse and is protected by a large cliff face either side. Again after exploration it was time to move next door to Crocodile Creek. The sailing guide suggests anchorage here at either the mouth of the short river or right up at the waterfall. Neither option is that appealing frankly. The first is an open bay that is not that wide and also very exposed to wind, waves and swell. The latter is even worse. The channel to the waterfall is very narrow, torturous, shallow and has numerous obstacles. If you manage to get there after all this, you have to anchor in a tiny and not that deep pool. 

The climb up to the first pool.

There is no swinging room so a stern rope is tied to the waterfall ladder. We settled for the first option and took the dinghy to the waterfall and tied it to the ladder. This area requires a couple of hour’s exploration as there is much to see and do. You climb up the ladder next to the lower waterfall to a very deep pool with a cemented area next to it.

All that is left.

This area was a camp but had been destroyed some years previous by a cyclone. There are remains of a bed and kitchen sink. It is not wise to swim in the adjacent beautiful deep pool as crocodiles can make their way there easily courtesy of high tide. 

The deep upper pool emptying into the lower pool.

Climb the rocks past the second waterfall and you will be rewarded with a very deep series of rock pools. The water felt like ice after the hot climb, but was very refreshing. After this adventure we decided a better night’s sleep would be had next door at Silvergull Creek. 

Squatter's Arms.

When we had passed by a few weeks ago our friends, Mal and Shelley at Squatter's Arms, had invited us to return to attend the wake for Marion (the original squatter). We were hopeful to arrive back in time for this event but because we were so long coming back from Derby we thought the event had been and gone. Nope we arrived two days before the event and as there was no wind to take us north east across Collier Bay, we stayed over a couple of days for the wake. 



The day was beautiful and nine boats (25 people) arrived from all over King and Yampi Sound for the wake. There was even Skype hook up with the simultaneous event (over a 100 people) at the Fremantle Yacht Club. Yep, she sure was a favourite person and from what we had heard a bit of a character and larrikin.

After a few days it was time to bid farewell to newly made friends and head east while the wind was blowing. The forecast for the next few days was going to be for strong winds and worsening by the afternoon. So to avoid the worst of the winds we left the next morning at 4.30 am and first light. We had made it half way across Collier Bay to Melomys Island by late morning. Not bad going. Then the next morning we had strong winds all day and tacked back and forth, finally reaching Raft's Point by early afternoon. Yes we had been here before and it had become a reliable sheltered anchorage. This time we would finish seeing the remaining art galleries and check out Montgomery's reef. Hopefully, this time there would be calm weather which would allow us to get out there and anchor for a few hours.